At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2

HDi fun said:
Time for a new thread possibly or rename possibly :-D You've been started on this car for over 5 years
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That's the trouble with long threads, the title can become a little dated. However, we are gettnig there, little by little. If you want to go quick, it can be a slow process :)
 
Started on wiring diagram for lights, ignition, wipers, etc last night. I am leaving engine and ECU wiring to the experts as I want the car to run :)

There's not a lot to sort out as fixtures and fittings are being kept to the minimuim required to pass the MOT.

 
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Looking good so far OG, only a quick look at your diagram but what are you using to switch your fan on with? The supply source connection I can see is taken care off but I cannot see the switch supply to the coil, this appears to be missing on the relay.
 
Thanks Os.

I have added a headlamp flasher (circled in green)

Do I need the fuses circled in red? The supply to these switches is protected by the fuse circled in blue.

 
I would say the fuse for the starter switch could remain if only to protect the coil side of the relay Steve. I would leave all the other fuses (Sub circuit protection) in the red circle in place. May I ask why you would want a headlight flasher on the car? Is this a Santa Pod thing?
 
Next questions. I have the fuses before the relays. Is this OK or should they be after the relays?

Can I use mini relays and mini fuses for all circuits? The mini relays are available up to 25amp. 2 x 65w headlamps = 130w. 130/12v = 10.8amps
 
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old-git said:
Next questions. I have the fuses before the relays. Is this OK or should they be after the relays?
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To my design criteria both. You protect the supply to the switch relay and the load of the device. This comes into play more when the load passes through a relay where the supply and the load are divided.



old-git said:
Can I use mini relays and mini fuses for all circuits? The mini relays are available up to 25amp. 2 x 65w headlamps = 130w. 130/12v = 10.8amps
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The physical size of the fuses and relays is irrelevant but the current carrying capacity should be relevant and directly proportional to the load and supply voltage/current criteria. You should be able to use the one mini relay to drive both headlamps taking into account diversity. If the load and switching is done below nominal ambient temperature i.e. below and within the optimal operating temperature of the relays and devices being used, then you could use one relay, I would use two relays with the one signal trigger to drive both relays, but if the action of the device is just for momentary switching and with a suitable duration of switching delay between operations then one relay will be sufficient for your needs OG.
 
Are you suggesting I put a fuse either side of the relays?

I think I will stay with separate relays for main and dip.
 
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1) Yes you can move the fuses after the switches but you will just be protecting less of the circuit.

2) The difference between standard and mini fuses usually comes down to their current range, mini goes to 30A where as standard/maxi can go to 120A.

3) In this instance you can use the 2x25 amp relays. In other designs you would usually match the relays to the load and factor in about 30% for possible surges i.e. motorised circuits where there is no soft start.

4) I like the look of the unit in the "polevolt" link.
 
T9 man said:
1) Yes you can move the fuses after the switches but you will just be protecting less of the circuit.

2) The difference between standard and mini fuses usually comes down to their current range, mini goes to 30A where as standard/maxi can go to 120A.

3) In this instance you can use the 2x25 amp relays. In other designs you would usually match the relays to the load and factor in about 30% for possible surges i.e. motorised circuits where there is no soft start.

4) I like the look of the unit in the "polevolt" link.
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1) That would be silly.

2) So Mini fuses it is.

3) As fuses protect circuits, using 25amp relays for all circuits isn't an issue? If not, then this reduces their cost as I can buy in bulk :)

4) It also saves having to make a relay and fuse holder. I think I will go with the polevolt.

Latest revision. Added compressor, parachute, line lock and ECU relays plus a couple spare:

 
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Revamp of console switches:

So far, left to right:
Ignition switch (awaiting delivery)
Start button
Lights and horn
Fuel pumps
Compressor
Brake lights off and flash
Wipers and washers

Unfortunately, I was unable to find a toggle switch style that has the functions I require hence the mix and match :-(

 
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Relay and fuse box, along with relays and ignition switch, arrived today. Next job is to work out wire sizes, colours and lengths.

 
Why is nothing I do simple?

I buy a modular relay and fuse system to simplify the electrics and I find that the fixing feet are too tall! I have cut and shut them to a more sensible height:



First fit on where I think the relay/fuse box will live:



Washer bottle and pump arrived today, another small box ticked. 1.2 litres is the smallest flat style bottle I could find but even this is too big for the amount of use it will get :)

 
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I have now got a pencilled in date for the main engine management wiring to be designed and installed - Mid November, so I now have a target to meet. This will concentrate the mind :)

Air compressor and reservoir required. This is to power flappy paddle gear shifting.

Needs to be able to supply 8 bar minimum and be as compact and light as possible.

Any ideas? This is the best I have found so far:

http://airbrush-fengda.co.uk/en_US/p/Hobby-compressor-with-air-tank-Fengda-AS-189/988
 
Have you factored in an invertor OG as that unit is a mains voltage type. I assume you are looking for a 12 volt version. While we are on the subject of flappy paddles, why do they operate with air? I thought those Mercedes switches were electric and not pneumatic! :blink:
 
Good point, silly me :). I will discuss this with my engine guru on monday.

Paddles are electric but the gear lever is moved by pneumatics.
 
With regard to the pneumatic actuator that moves the gear lever, my guru recommended the unit made by Shiftec, as he knows it works. However, on discovering that they cost £540 I have had to look elsewhere:

Shiftec actuator. Looks nice, but should do at that price:



I am now looking at the actuator recommended by XoomSpeed. I was plannig to use their system until I found out that my ECU can control everything. They use a standard, off the shelf, actuator. UK cost is £58 but I can get one in the States whilst on holiday for £38 :)

Not as pretty, but won't be visible:

 
Definitely one step forward and two steps back.

Engine and gearbox have been in for a few months, with bolts loctited and marked.

However, it now transpires that the box needs to be checked to see what rate spring has been fitted. It was built around the time they changed from a soft to a harder spring with the latter not working well with pneumatic shifting.

The only way to check is to take box apart, so out it comes :-(

Plan is to remove box and engine today and drive up to Stoke on Thursday. A bit of a pain but far better than finding out the spring needs to be changed when car is fully built.

Driving is cheaper than shipping, especially as no one seems to be prepared to insure for £6000! Max on Parcel2Go is £2500 and that costs £147 which is more than the petrol to get to Stoke and back.
 
How annoying :sad2:

All these silly things do add up but I have no doubt that you are on top of everything OG :)
 
Off to Stoke-on-Trent tomorow at 5am.

Removed engine and gearbox this afternoon. It took me longer to make the output shaft plug (so the oil didn't run out when the prop was removed) than to remove the engine and box.

Box now in car ready for the early start. Should take around 3 hours this early so be there around 8. Leave by 10 and home around 2. Box and engine back in by the evening so back to where I was this morning :)
 
Right....

Make plug - 1 hour
Remove engine and gearbox - 40 minutes

Left at 5am this morning for Stoke and arrived at Elite Racing Transmissions at 8.20.

Spring needed changing. They also replaced the studs and nuts, that hold the gear lever on, with alan bolts.

Rob then asked what oil I was using. When I replied the oil you recommended, Millers CRX LS 75w90 NT, he said don't use it! Apparently boxes have been coming back with pitted gears and bearings. Millers have now admitted that there is a problem with this oil and are reformulating it. I will now be using Millers CRX 75/90.

Only charged for labour - £20, a result.

Arrived back home at 12.27pm.

All of the above transpired just because of a chance chat with a Tony at Meteor Motorsport. He is developing a flappy paddle system for the IL300 box that I am using and discovered the spring issue.

A few bullets dodged there, I think :) Sometimes the bread falls buttered side up.
 
Brain fade due to early start and 6 hours driving in the
heat :)

Of course I know they are elaine bolts.
 
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