T9 man
TC ModFather
That marvellous sounding holiday of yours Steve cannot come soon enough, enjoy buddy 
At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2
- Thread starter pgarner
- Start date
That marvellous sounding holiday of yours Steve cannot come soon enough, enjoy buddy 
Delayed refitting box and engine whilst sorting out actuator bracker design.
The one made by Elite is, IMO, over engineered and my mantra (as you no doubt know by now) is "Min is the new Max"
Also, this wouldn't fit as gearbox is too tight a fit. So had a rethink and did a bit of Blue Petering with aluminium sheet and came up with this. Bracket bolts to screws on the left (difficult to see due to reflection from ally sheet behind box)
All the forces are along the centreline of the box so lateral forces are minimal/zero. What do the panel think of this idea?
The one made by Elite is, IMO, over engineered and my mantra (as you no doubt know by now) is "Min is the new Max"
Also, this wouldn't fit as gearbox is too tight a fit. So had a rethink and did a bit of Blue Petering with aluminium sheet and came up with this. Bracket bolts to screws on the left (difficult to see due to reflection from ally sheet behind box)
All the forces are along the centreline of the box so lateral forces are minimal/zero. What do the panel think of this idea?
Had a little rethink on actuator bracket today and came up with this: Need to get a longer banjo bolt and that is already ordered.
I will get it welded tomorrow and I can then tidy it up. Plan is now to assemble enough of the system (pump, reservoir and actuator) so that the basics can be tested on the bench.
To that end I have ordered an actuator from China for $9 including shipping! If it doesn't work not a lot lost. I will also be ordering a 200psi pump from same place for $145, again including shipping.
Looking to buy a carbon fibre air tank as used by paintballers. These are good for at least 3500psi, far more than I will be achieving.
I might just connect actuator up to my garage compressor to get a proof of concept Video will be posted of attempt.
I will get it welded tomorrow and I can then tidy it up. Plan is now to assemble enough of the system (pump, reservoir and actuator) so that the basics can be tested on the bench.
To that end I have ordered an actuator from China for $9 including shipping! If it doesn't work not a lot lost. I will also be ordering a 200psi pump from same place for $145, again including shipping.
Looking to buy a carbon fibre air tank as used by paintballers. These are good for at least 3500psi, far more than I will be achieving.
I might just connect actuator up to my garage compressor to get a proof of concept
Video will be posted of attempt.Hardened up on loom manufacture date. Slipped it to 1 Dec to give me an extra couple of weeks. 130 days less 29 in the States leaves me with 101 days to get everything done!
Bought air reservoir (eBay) and compressor (China).
Talked to a friend who uses actuators and he quickly deduced that the one I have coming from China is much too small. He dug one out of his store and he is correct. He showed me a used one he considers will do the job. A little longer than I need but at £10 I can live with that
Bracket was considered a little weak and could develope fatigue cracks so I have added stiffeners. Photo also shows autuator cleaned up and fitted with a lump of aluminium on the left hand end that the rod end will attach to:
in order to use this actuator I have had to make a few mods to bracket along with trimming the rod end.
Spent today making the bracket that fixes rod end to gear lever.
It is not a good idea to clamp a rod end through aluminium so I had to make some steel top hats. This all takes time but that job is now done.
As I want to be able to make fine adjustments to the actuator position I need left hand/right hand rod ends. Sourcing the rod end was easy (McGill Motorsports) but couldn't find a supplier of left hand thread bolts so will have to make one. The price of a HHS left hand die is around £30 - a bit steep for one bolt so I have ordered one from China for £8 including shipping
Bought air reservoir (eBay) and compressor (China).
Talked to a friend who uses actuators and he quickly deduced that the one I have coming from China is much too small. He dug one out of his store and he is correct. He showed me a used one he considers will do the job. A little longer than I need but at £10 I can live with that
Bracket was considered a little weak and could develope fatigue cracks so I have added stiffeners. Photo also shows autuator cleaned up and fitted with a lump of aluminium on the left hand end that the rod end will attach to:
in order to use this actuator I have had to make a few mods to bracket along with trimming the rod end.
Spent today making the bracket that fixes rod end to gear lever.
It is not a good idea to clamp a rod end through aluminium so I had to make some steel top hats. This all takes time but that job is now done.
As I want to be able to make fine adjustments to the actuator position I need left hand/right hand rod ends. Sourcing the rod end was easy (McGill Motorsports) but couldn't find a supplier of left hand thread bolts so will have to make one. The price of a HHS left hand die is around £30 - a bit steep for one bolt so I have ordered one from China for £8 including shipping
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Air reservoir arrived today. 1.1litres carbon fibre.
If I wanted to use for paintballing it would have to be recertified has it has expired. However, as I am planning to use 200psi max as opposed to 4500psi I think that it will be able to cope
However, I need to change the gauge as this is calibrated in 1000psi increments!
If I wanted to use for paintballing it would have to be recertified has it has expired. However, as I am planning to use 200psi max as opposed to 4500psi I think that it will be able to cope
However, I need to change the gauge as this is calibrated in 1000psi increments!
Bottle valve modified. One way valve used by paintball gun to release air removed and end drilled and threaded to accept 1/8 BSP.
My pneumatic guru/friend supplied me with a regulator/drain.
We also worked out the spec for the valves to control gear lever and parachute release actuators. Just need to source these.
My pneumatic guru/friend supplied me with a regulator/drain.
We also worked out the spec for the valves to control gear lever and parachute release actuators. Just need to source these.
Although I am a disciple of KISS, even I manage to overcomplicate things sometimes.
I wanted to be able to adjust the rotational position of the gear lever actuator so I bought a left hand thread tap and die and made a left handed bolt to fit into a left handed rod end. Completed it tonight (bracket needs to be cleaned up and a couple of steel top hats to be made) only to realise that I have been a twit. As the actuator rod is free to rotate there is no need for a left hand thread!
Oh, well, although I have wasted time and money no damage has been done, except to my pride
I wanted to be able to adjust the rotational position of the gear lever actuator so I bought a left hand thread tap and die and made a left handed bolt to fit into a left handed rod end. Completed it tonight (bracket needs to be cleaned up and a couple of steel top hats to be made) only to realise that I have been a twit. As the actuator rod is free to rotate there is no need for a left hand thread!
Oh, well, although I have wasted time and money no damage has been done, except to my pride
Put gearbox back into chassis to check that there aren't any clearance issues, luckily there is none:
What exactly are you getting up to in your workshop with that packet marked sensitive that you are not telling us
T9 man
TC ModFather
Back into the swing of things:
Solenoid air valves arrived whilst in the States, so have started to sort the flat shift system out. Solenoid that operates the gear lever is now bolted to the air cylinder:
Next job is to connect up compressor and reservoir to check that system will actually work before committing to these parts.
Solenoid air valves arrived whilst in the States, so have started to sort the flat shift system out. Solenoid that operates the gear lever is now bolted to the air cylinder:
Next job is to connect up compressor and reservoir to check that system will actually work before committing to these parts.
Ok, need some help
Looking for a small proximity sensor, 12v, detection distance >2mm. diameter 8mm or less preferred, threaded so adjustable, LED on wire end of sensor so it is easier to set up. This sort of thing (but shorter if poss):
I need to be able to accurately measure the position of the gear lever so I can turn off pnuematics at the right time. They will be positioned in front of and behind the lever so they pick up the forward and back movement.
Thanks in advance.
Looking for a small proximity sensor, 12v, detection distance >2mm. diameter 8mm or less preferred, threaded so adjustable, LED on wire end of sensor so it is easier to set up. This sort of thing (but shorter if poss):
I need to be able to accurately measure the position of the gear lever so I can turn off pnuematics at the right time. They will be positioned in front of and behind the lever so they pick up the forward and back movement.
Thanks in advance.
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davalav
Pro Tuner
I have missed a lot!
Sorry I haven't seen you in a while either, been so busy!
Good progress though and be nice to see this on the road finally!
Sorry I haven't seen you in a while either, been so busy!
Good progress though and be nice to see this on the road finally!
T9 man
TC ModFather
Have a look in RS and in Omron for their range of photoelectric sensors Steve, you should find what your looking for somewhere there:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/autom...ensors/?searchTerm=small+12v+proximity+sensor
http://industrial.omron.co.uk/en/products/catalogue/sensing/photoelectric_sensors/
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/autom...ensors/?searchTerm=small+12v+proximity+sensor
http://industrial.omron.co.uk/en/products/catalogue/sensing/photoelectric_sensors/
A ltttle step backwards.
Discovered that there is a fault with the air valve. It is supposed to exhaust when at rest but is remains pressurised. It has either been labelled incorrectly or had the wrong valve fitted. Anyway, contacted the seller on eBay and an immediate full refund was sent without having to return the item.
I am now looking at alternatives so watch this space
The clock is ticking with regard to my date with the wiring company (Dec 1) so I really need to get on with things.
To that end, I plan to spend next week exclusively on the car (apart form walking dog twice a day) and then take a view on whether I can get the car ready in time.
Discovered that there is a fault with the air valve. It is supposed to exhaust when at rest but is remains pressurised. It has either been labelled incorrectly or had the wrong valve fitted. Anyway, contacted the seller on eBay and an immediate full refund was sent without having to return the item.
I am now looking at alternatives so watch this space
The clock is ticking with regard to my date with the wiring company (Dec 1) so I really need to get on with things.
To that end, I plan to spend next week exclusively on the car (apart form walking dog twice a day) and then take a view on whether I can get the car ready in time.
Spent a fair bit of Monday hunting down and curing air leaks on the cylinder. Found most of them but air is still leaking, albeit very slowly, and I can't hear it so have no idea where it is coming from.
Tried water but the PTFE tape stops it sticking to the surface. I could, I suppose use the pushbike inner tube method, but it is such a small leak I am going to claim it is a built in feature. It allows the system to drain down when not in use thereby removing the high pressure hazard
I decided to use pneumatics to release the parachute. I will be using the small actuator I bought in error (shown in earlier photo next to the one I am using) so that's a plus.
I looked though my collection of cables amassed over many years and found a bowden cable (inner and outer) that is perfect for the job. I have stored this cable for at least 35 years on the off chance that it would come in handy one day
In order to fit the cable to the actuator I threaded a piece of steel bar, drilled a 1.5mm hole through an M5 grub screw which I then slipped on to the bowden cable. Ground down the knob on the end of the cable so it slipped into the steel bar and is held in place by the grub screw. Seems to work pretty well.
Made a bracket to support the throttle blipper actuator:
Tried water but the PTFE tape stops it sticking to the surface. I could, I suppose use the pushbike inner tube method, but it is such a small leak I am going to claim it is a built in feature. It allows the system to drain down when not in use thereby removing the high pressure hazard
I decided to use pneumatics to release the parachute. I will be using the small actuator I bought in error (shown in earlier photo next to the one I am using) so that's a plus.
I looked though my collection of cables amassed over many years and found a bowden cable (inner and outer) that is perfect for the job. I have stored this cable for at least 35 years on the off chance that it would come in handy one day
In order to fit the cable to the actuator I threaded a piece of steel bar, drilled a 1.5mm hole through an M5 grub screw which I then slipped on to the bowden cable. Ground down the knob on the end of the cable so it slipped into the steel bar and is held in place by the grub screw. Seems to work pretty well.
Made a bracket to support the throttle blipper actuator:
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Good news, bad news day.
Good news. Replacement solenoid arrived today from the States. Despite being shipped via USPS there was a Royal Mail delivery charge of £11! However, postie had not been told to collect this charge so he just gave it to me. Further proof, if needed, that being nice and friendly to people often pays off.
Check valve and it works, so nowjust have to modify fixing bracket to actuator.
Bad news. Spoke to Image Wheels today and it is not possible to make 15" wheels with the internal dimenson wide enough to fit over by existing suspension setup.
After a bit of cud chewing we have found a way to modify the suspension. By narrowing the top wishbone tube by 5mm I can move the push rod over and remove 10mm spacer on bottom wishbone, thereby moving rod end away from the wheel.
This will give me over 3mm clearance between rod end and wheel. Plenty
Good news. Replacement solenoid arrived today from the States. Despite being shipped via USPS there was a Royal Mail delivery charge of £11! However, postie had not been told to collect this charge so he just gave it to me. Further proof, if needed, that being nice and friendly to people often pays off.
Check valve and it works, so nowjust have to modify fixing bracket to actuator.
Bad news. Spoke to Image Wheels today and it is not possible to make 15" wheels with the internal dimenson wide enough to fit over by existing suspension setup.
After a bit of cud chewing we have found a way to modify the suspension. By narrowing the top wishbone tube by 5mm I can move the push rod over and remove 10mm spacer on bottom wishbone, thereby moving rod end away from the wheel.
This will give me over 3mm clearance between rod end and wheel. Plenty
Fitted new solenoid to actuator and fitted assembly to gearbox to see if it can shift the gears.
No problem in one direction (extending piston) but struggled in other (retracting piston). After a little thought realised why. When extending the piston the air has the whole area of the 32mm diameter bore to push on. However, when retracting the piston the effective area is reduced by the piston rod. The reduction is approx 15%.
The force exterted on the full area of the pistion is 125lbs at 100psi and 107lbs on the piston less rod area. From this I deduced that even when extending the piston we are close to the limits of this actuator.
By upgrading to a 40mm diameter bore the effective area (total area minus rod area) is increased by 55%. This increases the force exerted on the piston by air at 100psi from 107lbs to 164lbs.
If I go to a 50mm diameter bore this force increases to 273lbs!
As 125lbs was sufficient to extend the piston, 164lbs should be ample for both directions, so I will go for a 40mm bore actuator.
As I only need 30mm of movement in total, I will get an actuator with 50mm stroke rather than 75mm as at present. This will give me an extra 25mm of space to play with with regard to installation.
No problem in one direction (extending piston) but struggled in other (retracting piston). After a little thought realised why. When extending the piston the air has the whole area of the 32mm diameter bore to push on. However, when retracting the piston the effective area is reduced by the piston rod. The reduction is approx 15%.
The force exterted on the full area of the pistion is 125lbs at 100psi and 107lbs on the piston less rod area. From this I deduced that even when extending the piston we are close to the limits of this actuator.
By upgrading to a 40mm diameter bore the effective area (total area minus rod area) is increased by 55%. This increases the force exerted on the piston by air at 100psi from 107lbs to 164lbs.
If I go to a 50mm diameter bore this force increases to 273lbs!
As 125lbs was sufficient to extend the piston, 164lbs should be ample for both directions, so I will go for a 40mm bore actuator.
As I only need 30mm of movement in total, I will get an actuator with 50mm stroke rather than 75mm as at present. This will give me an extra 25mm of space to play with with regard to installation.
Ordered 40mm bore 50mm stroke actuator today, along with a couple of sensors for measuring gear lever position.
Finally, some good news. 15" wheels now clear the suspension. It has required a drastic mod to the upper wishbone but, as it is double tubed so well overengineered, this will be fine. The ticking noise isn't suspension catching wheel
11" wide wheels will now fit with an 8" inner rim.
Finally, some good news. 15" wheels now clear the suspension. It has required a drastic mod to the upper wishbone but, as it is double tubed so well overengineered, this will be fine. The ticking noise isn't suspension catching wheel
11" wide wheels will now fit with an 8" inner rim.
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T9 man
TC ModFather
My choice of wheels that suit the Elan would be Watanabe or Minilites.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSR-Wata...6-510-z240-Toyota-Datsun-Nissan-/110966861807
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SSR-Wata...6-510-z240-Toyota-Datsun-Nissan-/110966861807
claymore
The Torque Meister
I like the first of the 'other styles', the one with the blue center.
Thanks for that. They are a mixture of old and new styles which would be good compromise. If I went with these they would either be unpainted or black instead of blue.
I have never liked seeing suspension through the wheels. Don't really know why, maybe because mostly what is usually on show is rubbish. Or, because the car's lines are smooth and simple and the complicated suspension parts would clash. Or, I am not into showing off in a brash way.
However, on reflection, having just written the above, I think it is more to do with thinking that modern spoked wheels will not suit a 1960s car.
However, on reflection, having just written the above, I think it is more to do with thinking that modern spoked wheels will not suit a 1960s car.
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