At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2

On the rear, it's narrowing down to a choice between 285/40/15 on 10" rims and 305/35/15 on 11" rims. I will have to wait until the body is back on before making the final decision.

With regard to the front, I wil have no idea until the body is back on and I can see what clearances I have.
 
It's a sad day today. Just found out that prop to diff bolts have to be 10.9 so I can't use titanium :-(

Ordered from Ford at £12 for 4, about the same price as titanium!
 
:sad2: Oh well, you have not done to bad up till now with the titanium accessories, so I think we will let you off this one ;)
 
One step forward but three back today.

One step forward - Picked up prop bolts from Fords.

Three steps back - Over the last few weeks I have been playing with the rear suspension, trying to make it fit together smoothly, but with no success.

Finally, this afternoon, I measured the top wishbone, shown below, and discovered that the parallel arms aren't. They converge by approx 5mm! No wonder I am having difficulty in getting them to fit properly.



These will be going back to my fabricator tomorrow.
 
I have spent the last couple of days trying to sort out the rear suspension. Nothing fitted, it was all out of line.

Finally stood back and thought about it.

Everything fitted when the chassis and suspension was first fabricated.

All I have done is change one bush on the bottom wishbones to a rod end and modify the top wishbones so that the rod ends were adjustable insitu, I also had the bottom wishbones strengthened.

Suddenly the penny dropped. I knew that the top wishbone arms weren't exactly parallel but all they needed was a slight tweak. Howevwer, the bottom ones had had a fair bit of welding done to them in order to add extra bracing. Took them off and yes, they were slightly twisted!

A little bit of gentle persuasion with a 10 foot steel tube and they are now straight and everything fits!

Only set up by eye at the moment but the measurement from the front uprights to the rear vertical links are within 3mm of each other

Onward and upward :)
 
Getting down to the fine detail on the rear suspension assembly.

In order to gain a little more clearance between the damper push rod and top wishbone a little modification has been necessary. I have recessed one of the washer bearings into the fulcrum by 1.5mm so that the fulcrum moves away from the wishbone by that amount.

Everything is marginal, which makes it interesting :)



 
Engine sold so a bit more room in workshop.

Made flappy paddle handles:

Cutting blanks on CNC



Blanks complete ready for painting (actually, they have been painted once but the wrinkly finish was rubbish so I removed it prior to photos). Small hole is for hanging for painting and won't be visible when fitted to steering wheel.





Finished product (after third painting attempt to get the pair something approaching a similar finish). Unpainted recessed area is for better adhesive grip.

 
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Looking for curly cord. Found some in Australia that is 25 core. Looking for more cores if possible or, if not, a supplier in the UK.

Update - Demon Tweeks stock a 22 core cable
Updated update - Philatron in LA do a 40 core cable

This is the sort of thing I am on about, but in black, obviously :)

 
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old-git said:
Looking for curly cord. Found some in Australia that is 25 core. Looking for more cores if possible or, if not, a supplier in the UK.

Update - Demon Tweeks stock a 22 core cable

This is the sort of thing I am on about, but in black, obviously :)

Click to expand...

Just what I will be needing for my wheel :)
 
When strapped into the car I won't be able to reach the dash, so I need to make sure that all switches are within reach. To that end important controls will be on the steering wheel with the rest (lights, wipers, starter button, etc) will be situated on the centre spine.

I am in the process of modifying (widening) the fibreglass that surrounds the spine of the chassis so that the switches can be fitted without intruding into the chassis. Photo shows the pattern that I will be fibreglassing over and removing afterwards.



I have sourced lighting, ignition and starter switches but having trouble with washer/wiper. This one is perfect but I cannot find a supplier in the UK, only USA and Australia. Any ideas or anything similar that you know of? Fall back position is to get it when in the States in August.

 
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Unfortunately, T9, they don't do a combined wash/wiper switch, which is what I am looking for.
 
Design change on centre console, what a surprise :)

Decided to strengthen the top of tunnel at the same time as providing area for switches and filling in gear lever hole as it has moved. I am also hoping, but not convinced yet, that I will be able to mount the hydraulic handbrake on to it without having to drill into the chassis.

Regular readers will know that I have not done this lightly (pun not intended) as it adds a net 400grams, even after the hole drilling :)



Collected quite a few small clamps over the years, fortunately. These are holding on the aluminium angle.



Loctite 9461 two part epoxy:



Bricks and slabs sourced locally, ie from pile in paddock :)



Luckily I have some bigger clamps as well. These are staying on over night:



Although I have used carbon fibre sheet, it will be covered so it won't be visible, as I am sure you will be glad to hear :)
 
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old-git said:
A "what is this?" quiz :)

It is going on my car:

Click to expand...


Hummm! Well looking at the design of the contacts connected to the male receptacles, I would say that some sort of plunger/key gets inserted into it and makes contact with the spring connectors. I assume it is meant to take a heavy-ish load hence the 2x4 spring contacts. Last time I saw something like that, it was on a cheap security feature from Harry Moss back in the day. It was a way of using a special key to make a particular circuit like an ignition switch/immobiliser.

Probably a mile off but that what it reminds me off :)
 
I thought you might get it :)

Ignition switch for the Elan. Started off as a Sky box ID card slot.
 
Nah, simple country boy, me.

I managed to source a switch that will control side, dip and main beam as well as the horn, saving on a button and a switch :)

However, when it arrived I was surprised at its size. The body of the switch was too wide to fit into the space available and the knob was huge. Now. I know in some situations a large knob can be an advantage, but not in this case.

Ever resourceful, I got the body to fit using a grinding wheel and made a new knob:

 
Starting to fit switches. A small landmark as this photo shows the first wiring to be done on the car.

 
Right, back to tyres, again.

I was working my way through the List 1B of permitted tyres for racing to see if any were suitable. Most are too small. However, got to Michelin and found this (not on list):

Michelin Classic TB5 F:



According to Michelin they are road legal! This letter is supplied with the tyres for you to show to the cops :)

Michelin TB5F & TB5R Course / Racing tyres, although developed very much with motorsport use in mind, are road legal and roadworthy. They therefore comply with GB law in the ‘Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations, 1986’ – as amended. A requirement of these regulations is that car tyres must conform to ‘United Nations ECE Regulation 30’. To demonstrate this each tyre carries an ‘E2’ mark on both sidewalls and an adjacent type approval number.

Michelin TB5F & TB5R Course / Racing tyres and MOT inspections:

The Construction and Use Regulation 27, which applies to the condition and maintenance of tyres, states that the grooves of the tread pattern shall be of a depth of at least 1.6mm throughout a continuous band comprising the central three quarters of the breadth of tread and round the entire circumference of the tyre.

When a Michelin TB5F or TB5R Course / Racing tyre is being checked at an MOT test station, the 1.6mm minimum tread depth regulation applies only to the tyre’s principal grooves, those containing the wear indicators.

The MOT inspector can verify the above point by referring to “The MOT Inspection Manual” section 4.1 (tyres) issue date June 2002, issued by the Vehicle Inspectorate. In order to avoid any inconvenience or delay during a vehicle (MOT) test or roadside inspection we suggest that drivers using this tyre on the road carry a copy of this note in their vehicle.

For information, the original tread depth of the Michelin TB5F & TB5R Course / Racing principal grooves containing the wear indicators is approximately 5.5mm.

However, there is a difference of opinion regards 'breadth of tread'. Michelin, according to this letter, consider it to be the width of the primary grooves. MOT regulation 4.1 defines the breadth of tread as[/SIZE][/FONT] "the part of the tyre which can contact the road under normal conditions of use". As the slick part of the tyre is the important part with regard to grip (in the dry I hasten to add) it must be in contact with the road under normal conditions.

Based on 4.1 the tyre should fail an MOT test. I have written to both DVSA and Michelin to try to clarify the legality of the tyre. At present, as far as I can make out, this tyre is legal on a car under 3 years old only.
 
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Blimey, I can honestly say that I have never seen either of those tyres :embarrest:

What make and model is that one Colin?
 
Checked out their website. Unfortunately, the width range is small with nothing approaching the size I want/need. Nice looking tyre, though.
 
Update on tyre legality. Wrote to DVSA (successor to VOSA) on Wednesday and received a reply today!

Dear Mr Broad,[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]Thank you for your email enquiry dated 19th June 2014, concerning an MOT.[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]There aren't any problems with these for MOT purposes. So long as they meet the tread depth requirements they are fine. If you have a picture, or internet access to a picture of one 'as new' this might be useful to prove the narrow width of the original tread[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]I hope this information has assisted you with your enquiry, but if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to contact us again.[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]Kind Regards,[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]Rebecca
Customer Service Centre Agent
Driver and Vehicle Standards Agency

I have replied thanking them for their prompt response and asking for a reply on real, headed, paper :)
 
Right, next item on the list.

Parachute. Anyone here had any experience with drag chutes. I am looking for one for a 650kg/180mph car.
 
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