the stuff round the heat shield looks the same as the stuff i got around my exhaust manifold as standardI'm sure I can see some on there, even if not over the whole area.
I'm sure I can see some on there, even if not over the whole area.
Well not wanting to rain on your parade here dagger, firstly many thanks for taking the time to dig this out for us.
As the heat shield is made of aluminium this conducts heat like a sponge absorbs water. A fact brought home to me last year when the first aluminium MapTun front strut brace was resting on the engine bay of my car waiting to be fitted.
It was in the sun for about 10 mins while the mechanic popped into the garage to get some tools. I went to pick it up and have another close admiring glance at it, when the burning sensation caused me to drop it hard on the ground. :amazed: Add a heat defector foil onto the aluminium or it will be a waste of time. I use a 1000 degree special adhesive foil available from Demon Tweeks.
I believe our very own sleeper here on TC uses a gold foil type version on his monster car.
Im not sure that on a close to standard NA car there would be any gain at all even if it was airtight - and if it isnt i doubt its much practicle use at all to be honest.
There was a point to mine Nissan RB 26s run pretty hot as standard and with large twin turbos and 1.5 bar boost the heat under the bonnett was quite something and the turbos are close to the air filters which makes things worse.
Before
After
Effectiveness depends on NO (or close to) heat getting around or through the box
The box is made up to two layers of carbon sheet with a heat reflective gold sheet on the engine side
I made templates out of cardboard first so the holes for the induction are pretty much air tight .Obviously the fit cannot be rigid as the engine moves so the holes each have a flexible circular rubber seal .
The box is cut exact and sealed at the sides ( the gold sheet is adhesive )
At the top the carbon is cut to the contours of the bonnett and has a door seal which seals to the bonnett "carpet" when shut.
I prefer this because it looks much better without a top.
Air is supplied to the cold box via vents in the Nismo bumper which are specifically for that purpose . I just fabricated ducting to the underside of the cold box so that it is just acts like one large scoop as a direct feed.
How well it works I cant say but it certainly is a lot cooler than the engine bay so worth doing (IMHO anyway :bigsmile
Awesome images and a very cool way to do it! But If the air is circulating around the air box, surely the air will start to create a negative flow? I didn't see any where for excessive air to flow through...
Never mind... I am clearly blind. I see a gap underneath for the air... :embarrest:
Awesome images and a very cool way to do it! But If the air is circulating around the air box, surely the air will start to create a negative flow?
I didn't see any where for excessive air to flow through...[/QUOTE
I dont think you have undestood the set up ..........maybe thats cos I have not explained it fully .
Put simply the engine bay and cold box are seperate areas and have their own feeds and exits. They cannott therefore affect each other
The air that flows past the engine is it as it would be before the cold box was installed - through the grille , over/round the engine and out under the car as normal
The cold box is fed seperately and kept seperate -
From the vent at the front through ducting to the "cold box". It also has a vent through the inner front wing on the opposite side to the engine. so any excess air can escape that way if it needs to.
The pics also cant show there is a grille at the front of the ducting to stop nasties being sucked up (sticks/ stones / birds / small mammalls etc )
It comes to us all in the end