Clutch is slipping

dirtdevildemon

Full member
Points
71
Location
Glasgow
Car
gto twin turbo
Hi guys, my clutch is slipping on my pretty standard 1991 GTO. :sad2:
I was wondering what is a good clutch to go for, also is it a nightmare to fit a clutch to these vehicles.
Any advice welcome. :confused:
 
Unless you have done a lot to the engine i'd probably stick with an OEM clutch. The power clutches can be a bit heavy.

I can't help with how easy they are to do on these as I've never done one. There does seem to be a fair bit of space in the engine bay though which has to help. Unless you have the tools it is usually quicker and easier to let a garage do it.
 
hi pal
i changed the clutch in my gto lasr year, it took me 3 days im not a mechanic no skin left on my knuckles
the problrm i had was once the gearbox was back on , trying to get the selector rod to marry up with the cables i was nearly picking up a box of matches and a gallon of petrol
im sure glad i didnt
i noticed your in glasgow im not far away west lothian
mike
 
Here's a quick guide written by Russ my business partner, for another forum;

1 Disconnect battery (-first).

2 remove air filter and MAF ( we remove the MAF with the MAF adapter attached and leave the turbo intakes in place).

3 Remove battery, tray and washer bottle.

4 Remove gear selector cables with bracket attached from bell housing.

5 Remove the clutch slave cylinder and booster cylinders.

6 Remove Speedo drive.

7 Bend wiring harness securing tags open to free harness.

8 Raise the car and support.

9 Remove front wheels.

10 Drain gearbox.

11 Remove drive shafts (note the NS drive shaft support bearing will need unbolting from the engine block).

12 Unbolt and drop the exhaust front pipes.

13 Unbolt and drop the transfer box (if you are doing this on the ground leave it attached to the prop and push it to one side, if you are doing it on a ramp hold it output end up and remove it from the prop).

14 Unbolt 4 x 14mm gearbox bracket bolts front and rear.

15 Disconnect wires from starter, undo 2 x 14mm securing bolts and remove.

16 Remove the sub frame from below the gearbox.

17 Undo 2 x 17mm lower bell housing bolts (accessed from engine side), leave them in place once undone.

18 Remove the clutch vacuum cylinders.

Back in engine bay.

19 Attach engine hoist to gearbox using strops and take up the slack.

20 Unbolt 4 x 17mm bell housing bolts (accessed from gearbox side).

21 Unbolt gearbox mount through bolt and 4 x 14mm bolts through chassis.

22 Remove remaining gearbox mount from gearbox.

23 Pull gearbox away from engine.

24 Once free lower to the ground.

25 Remove flywheel and take to engineers for skimming.

26 Pull out and clean gearbox.

27 Refit skimmed flywheel.

28 Fit new clutch making sure it is centred correctly.

29 Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

30 Don't forget to refill any fluids drained.


Renewing the clutch without having the flywheel skimmed is a waste of time or you will be putting another one in, in a few months. When having the flywheel surface skimmed, make sure they do the pegs too.
We charge £420 + VAT, this includes replacement of all related fluids, gaskets, skimming the flywheel, OEM clutch, starter motor overhaul (makes sense to do it while it's off) and labour. We also clean the box and xfer box while they are off and clean and grease all the gear linkages, and correctly adjust the clutch pedal.
 
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