What is your redline rev limit

I agree. Provided everything is in order servicing wise etc. and the engine is FULLY warmed up, not just the coolant gauge at the right place, then the red line limit is well within the safety envelope of the engine. The limiter will stop you going too far anyway. Even that will be set conservatively.

The only thing you're going to damage with 'visits' to the red line is your wallet. Due to the more frequent visits to the fuel pumps. So if you can afford it, then, well, why not? :)

I think that nursing cars needlessly is far more likely to cause oil circulation and emissions problems.
 
if im in fuel saving mode then i sit my car btween 1500 and 2500 rpm. if not then its anything between 3-5000. still not too bad on the old burning juice.

alot better since i cleaned it all out aswell.
 
You'll find the tds engine very lively between 1500 and 2500rpm.

The 143bhp variant (which yours will be given it's a tds, not a td) was probably the finest road car turbo-diesel engine of its time. Six cylinders, well managed supercharging and proper refinement made it a darling of the motoring press.

For the first time no one apologised for running a diesel car, or had to add the 'for a diesel' suffix to any statement regarding performance or comfort.

What you've bought is an iconic stepping stone on the path to today's diesel engines. It was the benchmark for future development and still stands its ground very well indeed.
 
You'll find the tds engine very lively between 1500 and 2500rpm.

The 143bhp variant (which yours will be given it's a tds, not a td) was probably the finest road car turbo-diesel engine of its time. Six cylinders, well managed supercharging and proper refinement made it a darling of the motoring press.

For the first time no one apologised for running a diesel car, or had to add the 'for a diesel' suffix to any statement regarding performance or comfort.

What you've bought is an iconic stepping stone on the path to today's diesel engines. It was the benchmark for future development and still stands its ground very well indeed.

a good buy then me thinks !!!! :lol:
 
I agree. Provided everything is in order servicing wise etc. and the engine is FULLY warmed up, not just the coolant gauge at the right place, then the red line limit is well within the safety envelope of the engine.

Indeedy. RS4 actually puts in a lower physical rev-limiter from cold start which is nice and says so on the screen. Once it removes this, the display changes to oil temperature. First car I've had with oil temperature reading.

That said, its a pretty arbitrary number for me, it seems to vary from anything between 94c cruising and 115c when ragging it but being digital, so no 'red' area like the coolant gauge, I have no idea what's good or bad!!

It does however demonstrate how the oil warms slower than the coolant. The car lifts the rev-limiter to maximum when the oil hits 62c. The coolant has already been sat at 90c on the needle for a good 5 minutes at this point, and probably 10 minutes by the time to the oil reaches what seems its normal 90+c.

So those who go ragging when the coolant gauge hits 90, and we know they exist, are doing so on cold oil.
 
.. and regarding that engine note. I've already taken off the vacuum pipes from the exhaust valves and plugged them up - and hammered the valves permanently open :twisted:

What does all this mean in laymans terms please Rob? :embarrest:
 
What does all this mean in laymans terms please Rob? :embarrest:

My exhaust has butterfly valves in it which close a certain path which when open bypasses some of the silencing... the car comes standard like this. They are normally closed (and thus the car quiet) unless you press 'Sport' AND are above 3000rpm in 1st, 2nd or 3rd or at any revs in 4th, 5th and 6th.

It's a load of old crap, and I would prefer to hear it rumbling away at any revs in any gear.

Took a look underneath, the valves are activated by an ECU commanded vacuum. I took off both these pipes, plugged them with screws so the car doesn't have a vacuum leak, and then manually pushed the butterfly valves open.

My cheapest ever exhaust upgrade !!
 
My exhaust has butterfly valves in it which close a certain path which when open bypasses some of the silencing... the car comes standard like this. They are normally closed (and thus the car quiet) unless you press 'Sport' AND are above 3000rpm in 1st, 2nd or 3rd or at any revs in 4th, 5th and 6th.

It's a load of old crap, and I would prefer to hear it rumbling away at any revs in any gear.

Took a look underneath, the valves are activated by an ECU commanded vacuum. I took off both these pipes, plugged them with screws so the car doesn't have a vacuum leak, and then manually pushed the butterfly valves open.

My cheapest ever exhaust upgrade !!

Marvellous! thanks for the explanation :)
 
just abit over 6k wish it had abit more though actually with a full exhaust system grunting down your backside and sounding like somethings going 2 blow i think
i'll prefer 6k
 
Blimey, my old 406 HDi 2.2 had an oil temp gauge. Just goes to show how touchy diesel turbo engines really are!!

hehe. I've only ever had one Diesel, and it was a Freelander. Even an outside temperature reading was beyond LandRover's engineering capabilities.
 

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