Finish and correction ability over a large area isn't even comparable to applying by hand. DAS-6 is a good option if you want something that is good value. You need to polish small areas at a time (18"x18" for example) for correction work and stay away from the edges of the panels where the paint is thinner. Apply light pressure and you want to be moving only a couple of inches a second when correcting.
You want to use the least abrasive polish and pad combo that still removes the defects if that makes sense. This will minimise the clearcoat/paint removal. Something like Dodo Juice Lime Prime is great at removing light swirls and minor defects. Anything more serious will need something with more cut. Megs #83 would be ideal.
You won't burn the paint with a DA and nothing too aggressive unless you're a complete tool. There's no need to keep the head wet with any modern polish (not G3 for example) in fact DON'T keep the pads wet as it will affect the working of the polish and may lead to it splattering everywhere. If you are using a dry, dusty polish a couple of quick spritzes with water onto the pad is helpful though, but nothing more.
Just copied and pasted that in the How to: Maintain your paintwork thread! Might get round to finishing that over the next couple of weeks.
Don't forget to protect your paintwork afterwards too Prince, and if you are going for a big correction you'll need to clay first, you'll be shocked at the dirt. Tape up anything you don't want to get polish on because it can stain!
Basically:
Wash (TBM)
Clay
Wash (TBM)
Correcting
Refine if needed
Wash or wipe with IPA
Wax or Sealent