Little 'performance' resistors on Ebay

wezzel98765

Road Burner
Points
67
Location
Deal, Kent
Car
Renault Clio 1.2 8V
Well, I always thought that these things were poo, but I have actually noticed, since taking it off, it did do something. It used more fuel, but, it did do its job, it removed the temporary air lag in the lower RPM ranges on my car.

I have noticed in the lower RPMs in 1st and 2nd gear, that there is a slight air lag whilst using my induction kit, this is because there is less fuel getting into the car. The resistor made the car think that there was more air before, so there wasn't this flat spot.

Although, this could be because my air filter now needs cleaning, it has had around 10,000 miles of use so far, so it's not doing bad :D
 
most of them tell the ECu that the air is colder than it is, so it thinks theres more O2 so more fuel is used to burn correctly. this can and proberly would have damaged the engine over time
Might have had something to do with a induction kit on a 1.2 as well, as its something to do with the air pressure in the inlet pipes. Try going back to a normal filter
 
most of them tell the ECu that the air is colder than it is, so it thinks theres more O2 so more fuel is used to burn correctly. this can and proberly would have damaged the engine over time
Might have had something to do with a induction kit on a 1.2 as well, as its something to do with the air pressure in the inlet pipes. Try going back to a normal filter

Could it be a faulty MAP sensor possibly?
 
I might try 1 of these to bypass my maf an see if it solves my prob. And to see if it will cure my flatspot... I have 1 on my old Rover an it made it run lumpy but did actually work in it......
 
If you have what is known as the "Proper" version of one of those gizmo's, it should be a piggy back device that doesn't bypass the MAF sensor, it wires into the MAF sensors plug. Most plugs should have 2 pins on them, the piggy back device simply connects to those 2 pins and then plug the MAF sensor back in.

If you bypass the MAF sensor completly, your car will run like crap and you will probably do alot of damage that is worth the hasstle considering the devices only cost about £5-10., which would resault in £100's of damage ;)

Bottom Line, STAY CLEAR OF CHEAP EBAY PERFORMANCE MODS ;) Especially the electric superchargers lol.
 
A full piggyback ECU is fine, but I still prefer the proper ECU remap as a route to increasing power output.

Bypassing the MAF is pointless. Without it how can the engine know how much fuel to inject?
 
Exactly right there HDi ;) And yes, a piggy back ECU is fine aslong as it's set up right. Many peeps use a second one for a Stand-Alone Fuel system. But a piggy back device which is designed to fool the standard ECU is not a good thing, especially if you have a car that has a learning ecu (designed to adjust automatically if things are changed i.e. air filter, exhaust etc)
 
A full piggyback ECU is fine, but I still prefer the proper ECU remap as a route to increasing power output.
Bypassing the MAF is pointless. Without it how can the engine know how much fuel to inject?

I agree,

Any piggy-back ECU or Resistor sends false info to the cars PCM/ECM. Getting the IAT (Intake Air Temp) wrong by signalling the ECM that it's +5c instead of +25c is going to throw all the Long Term Fuelling Trims out and may cause the engine too run too rich and lose you power.

Un-plugging or dis-connecting the Maf-sensor enables the PCM to go into Back-Up mode. Which on most cars means you are now in Speed Density Mode.
All parameters for fuelling then come from IAT, TP, MAP sensor and RPM. Plus on a lot of petrol engined cars, it reverts to the Low Octane Table.

It's a good way of checking if the Maf-sensor is causing any problems.
Some Maf-sensors have the IAT sensor integrated in the housing. This has to be taken into account as un-plugging in this case will cause the IAT to default to it's lowest value (normally -40c).
 

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