Engine Breaking

nseries

Tuner
Points
65
Location
Brunei
Car
Lancer GLX 95
Hi all,

Have you all ever done any engine breaking to your new engines?Found an article quite interesting about engine breaking as it helps your car to increase rev quicker. Plus, you'll have much better torque and power across the power range from the vastly improved ring seal.

Check out this at:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

How true is this?


 
wouldnt it make sence to follow the opinion of the people who made the car. ive always been told breaking a car in like that is a no go
 
His methods do seem plausible. After all, he's is not advocating thrashing it mercilessly. And I totally agree that the worst thing you can do to an engine is to work it hard when the oil is still cold.
 
hdi's right hey gives warning about allowing the engine to warm up first. as well asonly only doing it for a very short time. goes on about changing the oil stright away to remove all the crud.
 
So basically there's no harm on your engine if you follow his guide properly.He did mentioned to drive hard in 2 days time, do you all agree that in just 2 days time can get this engine breaking done? I'm just wondering after all this, is there really so much gain in rev quicker and better torque?

If anyone had a good experience in this, feel free to share on how you did it.Thanks
 
That's what he's saying.

Having read through again I do think that the author is referring to bike engines for the greater part of the article. Although the priciples of operation remain the same for cars, car engines are required to haul much more mass. So perhaps partial load as opposed to full load should be used.

I have never tried breaking an engine in this way and have not ever had problems as a result of doing the factory way. But that doesn't mean that his way isn't better.
 
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This does depend a lot on the engine. A friend tried this after a new build with new piston rings hoping to bed them in more quickly. Due to blow by - the gap around the cylinders the pressure goes straight into the block and he blew out every oil seal in his engine from top to bottom.

Bike engines rev much more highly than car engines and I would imagine are made with tighter tolerances. In the case of new cars and most rebuilt engines the best way to break it in is with lots of steep hill and heavy load at partial throttle.

You still need to change the oil very quickly and a magnet around the oil filter is a very good idea.
 
It seems that varying engine speed and load (without maxing either) is the 'official' way that most car engine mfrs recommend. I really would not want to fully load a TD engine when brand new because of the enormous cylinder BMEP.
 
where do the filter magnets go ? please dont say on the oil filter or im going to feel really stupid. have seen ones that replace the drain plug
 
A magnet around the oil filter can attracts the metal dust caused by engine breaking perhaps.But would it be better that once you change your oil and straight away flush out the dust rather than using a magnet?
 
The one I have is on the oil filter - and it's not a stupid question because there's a lot of evidence for suggesting that the drain plug would be a good place for a second one.
 
All engines - even when broken in have metal particles swishing around in the oil. If the particles are too small to get trapped in the filter then you have a sandblast solution swishing around the engine - not good.
 
Yup thats it - have you ever cut one open to see what the magnet has caught. (Be carefull it is a real pig to open them up a tin opener would prbably work best;))
 
I have done just that. It's quite easy the second time. The first time I tried to batter it into submission with a large screwdriver and wound up in the casualty dept.
 

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