Hello Wayne. The idea is to rebuild the car respecting it's era. Basically, the TC is a pre War design so in a way I feel the need to respect some of it's limitations... but make improvements where I can. It will never perform or handle like a modern car but should still be an exciting, fun car to drive.
Respcting the period design, however, throws up some interesting challenges. One thing that has surprised me was a number of what I consider to be design flaws in the car and I see no advantage in perpetuating them if I can do something better. For example; these cars - like many other cars of the time - had what I consider to be a poor electrical system. One case in point is the lack of fusing,
Originally, there were just two 35 amp fuses which supposedly protected the whole car. Regardless of load, I would imagine the result of up to 35 amps surging through the loom would result in a fire long before the fuse had blown.! In fact, there have been quite a few dashboard fires in T types that I have read about. In response to this, I have installed a new loom but I now have 10 fuses to protect it. In addition, I have some rare and rather fragile switches that need protecting. My desire to keep high amperages away from the (wooden) dashboard and protect those switches has led me to installing a system of relays. I have 8 changeover relays in two banks. The fuses and relays are accessible but discreetly positioned so as not to stand out. Incidentally, normal relays have a tendency to emit high voltage spikes so I have chosen the type with a relay built in. (As found on Morgan cars). The reason for this is to protect the sensitive electronics - such as my new CSI electronic distributor. I have a transil fitted to the petrol pump for the same reason.
Still on the electrics, I have replaced the feeble Lucas dynamo with a 45 amp Dynamator. It looks like an old fashioned dynamo by is in fact an alternator. One of the consequences of doing this is more reliable voltage regulation and consequently I have removed the RF95 voltage control box from the system. The box is still in use, however, but mainly as a useful junction box. Both the original 35 amp fuses are still operable but as a back up,
Of course I have no desire to couple the brake lights as flashing indicators (as fitted to the American export models) so I have added period style lamps as indicators.
When these cars were new they had no petrol gauge; just a low level warning light. I have sourced a clever "hydrostatic" device that can be plumbed into the petrol tank drain outlet. Some electronic wizardry links to a new petrol gauge on the dash.
Incidentally, the car came to me with it's compliment of four gauges (plus clock) although they required restoration. I entrusted their restoration to John Marks (best in the business) and added a further three gauges. This required a complete rethink of the instrument board layout (which won't please the purists!)
Waynne. As it happens none of the mods you mentioned will be required.
1) ABS - not fitted.
Many builders would fit disc brakes without question. Yes, there is no contest between drums and discs BUT my aim is to respect the period appearance of the car and that alone rules them out. There are also torque reaction issues when trying to marry disc brakes to old technology (beam axle / leaf springs ) and for that reason I have retained and refurbished the original Luvax lever arm dampers. I have also renewed the springs and added a Panhard rod to better locate the front axle.
MY solution is to fit "Alfin" type drums with an improved brake shoe linings. These hugely expensive drums have a cast iron middle with a ribbed aluminium outer that dissipates heat. They were always a desirable period option. I have also invested in new brass bodied stainless steel wheel cylinders and master cylinder with new Kunifer brake lines with stainless steel coil armouring.
The brakes work fine but their design is inefficient. Later MG cars had twin leading shoes; a big improvement on the TC's single leading shoe arrangement - but the conversion would mean permanently altering the original back plates; which is at odds with my philosophy of making only those changes that are easily reversible. To that end I have opted for a 1.9 :1 servo to assist the brake pedal. I fully understand it won't improve the brakes but it should improve their feel. The servo (genuine Lockheed) is mounted under the floor next to the rear axle.
Incidentally, one of the design flaws I mentioned is having the master cylinder under the drivers side floor board. I have added a remote reservoir accessible from inside the scuttle mounted battery box. This makes checking the brake fluid much more user friendly.
2) Power Steering. - not fitted.
The original steering was very direct but suffered from "wander". It could also fail without warning. The answer, as many TC owners have found, is to fit either a Nissan or VW steering box. I have fitted a VW box in place of the original "Bishop cam". One benefit is that although the steering is lower geared ( nearly 3 turns from lock to lock ) it is much lighter. To counter the gearing issue I have a new Blumells "Brooklands" steering wheel with a 15 1/2" diameter as opposed to the original 17". I also fitted new track rod and control arm ends but I may change those for rose joints. I have also renewed the king pins and bushes but added "Torrington" needle roller thrust bearings in place of basic thrust washers.
All the hubs have been renewed but now have taper roller bearings. New wheels and tyres are on order.
Fuel Injection - not fitted.
Instead of the twin carbs I have fitted an Eaton M45 supercharger. This is fed by a 1 3/4" SU. this may prove to be too big; a 1 1/2" SU is the more common fitment but let's see how it goes. The cylinder head has been ported and properly shaped for use with a blower. It also has bigger valves, double springs and bronze valve guides. Converted to unleaded and running a fast road cam. Rocker gear and push rods replaced and new timing gears with better quality chain fitted. The engine has been comprehensively rebuilt by MG guru Peter Edney with +60 racing pistons... but I have added a crank case pressure evacuation system operating from a scavenger unit in the exhaust. This mod replaces the old draught tube and works better than a standard PCV valve with a supercharger. As to the exhaust; I have installed a stainless steel extractor manifold with larger pipe and silencer; also in stainless.
There is so much more.....