Problems with my Rover 220 GTi

"My Rover rant"

Problems with my Rover 220 GTi 

Recent problems

The standard brakes are pretty pathetic (especially for a car like this) but dropping the standard pads for EBC Greenstuff pads really transformed the braking. The brake hosess have been upgraded to braided hoses and I'm using a sythetic brake fluid. These babys do not fade when they they get hot.

The rear wiper kept freezing on its return so a new motor was fitted curing this problem. A small rattle from the fuse box cover was sorted by fixing some insulation tape to the lid. 2 years on the wiper has given up again!! There is a leak into the boot which I can't track down - any suggestions? There are also a number of small annoying oil leaks which stay fixed for short periods of time.

This was my most unreliable but also my most fun car . I could pass most things except for the local Garage!

A loud rattle in engine when its warm on light and heavy acceleration between 2500 and 3000 rpm it sounds serious enough to warrant not wasting money getting it fixed - a trip to the scrappy should produce a suitable donor engine although I haven't noticed a performance drop off! Replacement engine dropped in.

200 miles later - ahhggh threw a con rod through the sump and through the downpipe - engine destroyed - try again! It was very impressive when it happened a loud bang complete loss of power to the engine the oil trickled onto and into the exhaust causing a terric plume of white smoke to follow me to a halt! The MEMS needed a reset and I was told by my mechanic that when the oil pressure drops the MEMS shuts down the engine - it's a shame it didn't work out that the conrod was about to go walk-about and shut down the engine for me as it would have cost a lot less to fix.

These engines seem pretty pathetic but I've spend a lot of money already so I don't really want to give up on the car. The scrap yard that sold me the engine are sending me a replacement unit. The new engine is going to be fully rebuilt - I'm not taking any chances this time.

The gearbox drive shaft (the bit that goes into the clutch) was wobbling as it rotated so I went for a rebuilt gearbox with a lower 1st to 3rd gear ratios and higher ratios for 4th and 5th for economy. This box was built for a turbo and has a limited slip diff which really makes a difference in the wet. The ratios match the engine better than the original box and overtaking in 2nd and 3rd gears is fantastic.

PLEASE HELP: I NEED YOUR DONATIONS TO COVER THE COSTS OF RUNNING THIS SITE AND KEEP IT RUNNING. I do not charge you to access this website and it saves most TorqueCars readers $100's each year - but we are NON PROFIT and not even covering our costs. To keep us running PLEASE Donate here

If you liked this page please share it with your friends, drop a link to it in your favourite forum or use the bookmarking options to save it to your social media profile.

Please watch this video on our new YouTube channel.


Please use our forums if you wish to ask a tuning question, and please note we do not sell parts or services, we are just an online magazine.

Help us improve, leave a suggestion or tip

Your Constructive comments on this article

Member Benefits

Join our forum today and benefit from over 300,000 posts on tuning styling and friendly car banter.

You will also have full access to the modifed car gallery, project car updates and exclusive member only areas.

(All car owners of all ages and from all countries are welcome).