Some small issues...

[MsEditor]

Since the refurbished ECU went in I am having a couple of small issues with the GTO...

My active aero only works once! the rear spoiler goes up ok when I hit 55 but then as soon as it comes back down again the light comes on and it wont go back up again until I have turned the engine off.

My SRS light is on and stays on no matter what

Also my suspension feels really soft at the front and quite bouncy... someone told me that when the ECU comes out the setting defaults to comfort and I need to set it back to sport... but that no worky either!

Any ideas??

Many Thanks

 

[obi_waynne]

How long has it been and how many miles have you done since the ECU replacement?

 

[Country Bumpkin]

The SRS light is because either the battery has gone flat, the dash has been unplugged without disconnecting the battery or there is just a fault. Normally it's fine but just needs resetting via a MUT.

The ECS settings have nothing to do with the ECU in regards the aspect of making it feel soft etc. The ECS has it's own ECU.
Is the sport/tour mode light flashing or is it operating properly on change over ?

The active aero probably needs servicing. The microswitches in the rear aero fail to contact and do need replacing sometimes. The aeros work in unison so if one is not working properly, neither will the other. Have a look at the front aero and see if it's stuck in the up or down position.

 

[MsEditor]

Waynne... ECU was done about a month ago and probably done 150 miles since, 200 max.

Mark... I put a new battery on as the old one was toast so I'm guessing this may have something to do with the SRS light... I'll get it reset and go from there.

The ECS button is dead, I don't have any lights come on and when I try and change over nothing happens - its like the button isn't doing anything.

My Aero failed once before but that was because there was a pigeon stuck in the front! after I cleaned it out all was OK - I was a little baffled by the fact it works once and then fails. I'll check the front out and see whats going on and let you know from there

Thanks guys

 

[Country Bumpkin]

If the ECS is totally dead it may be the [ECS] ECU. This is beside the rear speaker on the drivers side.

This is how to read the ECS trouble codes with a voltmeter on a OBD1 3000GT/GTO,

1. Find the datalink connector under the dash in the driver's side.
A. 1ST GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 12. Pin 3 is the third down on the left side, before the double space. Pin 12 is the lower right corner.
B. 2ND GENERATION - connect + to pin 3, - to pin 4 or 5. Pin 3 is the third from the top left side of the connector ( on the log side of the trapezoid), pin 4 and 5 are next to the right.

2. Turn the ignition on.

3. Look at the voltmeter. The code is repeated many times. Seven (7) short deflections is code =0, and means everything is wonderful.

4. Other codes are: 1 long, 1 short = 11, G sensor bad.
2 long, 1 short=21, steering angular velocity sensor open
2 long, 4 short=24, speed sensor open

These codes don't disappear until ingnition switch is off, even if you fix the problem.

5. These codes disappear when you correct the problem:
6 long, 1 short=61, Front Right shock
6 long, 2 short=62, Front left shock
6 long, 3 short=63, Rear right shock
6 long, 4 short=64, Rear Left shock

MFI trouble codes are read in a similar manner, but different pins.

FIRST GENERATION - connect + to pin 1, - to pin 12.
SECOND GENERATION - Connect pin 1 to GROUND and watch the CHECK ENGINE light flashes for same sort of patterns - long flashes (1.5 sec) are tens digit, short (0.5 sec) flashes are ones digit. That gets you the same codes you would read on the Scan Tool.

You clear codes by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds, reconnecting and idling the car for 15 min to make sure the codes don't return