alrite ppl iv got a 1.1 yeh *#*#*#*# i no but im doin it up i neva realise that 1.1 pugs were so nippy iv beat a few ppl suprising myself my question is i hav exhaust and induction kit wat else can i add like cams of stuff like that that will increase speed with out no conversions to engine thanks ???
pug pug
- Thread starter nath
- Start date
what type of exhaust do you have? just a backbox or cat back? or full system?
as far as i know, decat is illegal for road use, but sports cats are good, but expensive.
i am a big fan of uprated exhaust manifolds too
also, with induction kits, my one was where the standard air filter was. that was sloppy low end response. however, i got the air filter tube off a Rover 214... my induction kit is now behind the radiator, low down. it seems to be more responsive now. i reccomend!! plus scrappies would give you that for a few coins!!
plus ive been reccommended to buy a fuel pressuriser, it doesnt increase top end, but is better for throttle response.
as far as i know, decat is illegal for road use, but sports cats are good, but expensive.
i am a big fan of uprated exhaust manifolds too
also, with induction kits, my one was where the standard air filter was. that was sloppy low end response. however, i got the air filter tube off a Rover 214... my induction kit is now behind the radiator, low down. it seems to be more responsive now. i reccomend!! plus scrappies would give you that for a few coins!!
plus ive been reccommended to buy a fuel pressuriser, it doesnt increase top end, but is better for throttle response.
so according to my assumptions ( ) your cas is a single silencer system? in which case, im assuming that just a backbox is good. as removing baffles (ones like yours dont have much, if any) increases performance. BUT however, a little bit of backpressure is good. not much, but a small amount.
i am assuming that yours is good enough as it is
but yeah id suggest an exhaust manifold. or full stainless exhaust system. may not be the best performance mod... but it helps engine run smoother. so yeah haha
thats my advice anyway
but i aint the most professional person ever... im just learning too
) your cas is a single silencer system? in which case, im assuming that just a backbox is good. as removing baffles (ones like yours dont have much, if any) increases performance. BUT however, a little bit of backpressure is good. not much, but a small amount. i am assuming that yours is good enough as it is
but yeah id suggest an exhaust manifold. or full stainless exhaust system. may not be the best performance mod... but it helps engine run smoother. so yeah haha
thats my advice anyway
but i aint the most professional person ever... im just learning too
What is this? The 106 1.1 tuning club?
Just kidding guys, glad to see you've got the right idea with some of the mods!
Personally, I wouldn't bother with any serious work on the lump, such as cams, or even a s/s manifold. These would be great on a 1.6 but you wont notice enough difference for the money you'll be spending.
I think you've hit the nail on the head with the 'fuel pressuriser' (I've never heard it called that before!!), they are known as 'FSE Boost Valves', and like you say, they increase the pressure of the fuel in the rails, so there is more going through your injectors when you need it. This would compliment a decent induction system very well, as you can imagine, you need to balance out the amount of air with fuel (roughly), to maximise combustion..
Something else which may really work well for you is a 'Free Power Unit', the Peugeot/Citroen specialist GMC make such a unit. It works on the principle of disconnecting your alternator when you need power. As you probably already know, your alternator works off a belt connected to your engine, and uses the power created to charge your battery. This is always on when you are driving, but works harder when more electrical devices are used. You can feel the dip in REV's as a result, when your engines fans come on, or you use your electric windows.. The GMC unit works off of your 'Throttle Position Sensor', when you open up the throttle wide, it disconnects the alternator, so it is no longer sapping the power from your engine, and it goes straight into your drive system and onto the road, just when you need it!
Hope this helps!
Freddie.
Just kidding guys, glad to see you've got the right idea with some of the mods!
Personally, I wouldn't bother with any serious work on the lump, such as cams, or even a s/s manifold. These would be great on a 1.6 but you wont notice enough difference for the money you'll be spending.
I think you've hit the nail on the head with the 'fuel pressuriser' (I've never heard it called that before!!), they are known as 'FSE Boost Valves', and like you say, they increase the pressure of the fuel in the rails, so there is more going through your injectors when you need it. This would compliment a decent induction system very well, as you can imagine, you need to balance out the amount of air with fuel (roughly), to maximise combustion..
Something else which may really work well for you is a 'Free Power Unit', the Peugeot/Citroen specialist GMC make such a unit. It works on the principle of disconnecting your alternator when you need power. As you probably already know, your alternator works off a belt connected to your engine, and uses the power created to charge your battery. This is always on when you are driving, but works harder when more electrical devices are used. You can feel the dip in REV's as a result, when your engines fans come on, or you use your electric windows.. The GMC unit works off of your 'Throttle Position Sensor', when you open up the throttle wide, it disconnects the alternator, so it is no longer sapping the power from your engine, and it goes straight into your drive system and onto the road, just when you need it!
Hope this helps!
Freddie.
haha yeah 1.1s arent really worth bothering with i know! but still, its me first car.. ill just do small mods, nothing huge... but then my plan is once i can afford the insurance for a bigger engine, ill put all the old bits on the new engine too!
cheers for the extra info mate
this forum is awesome!!! i have learn loads recently!! haha
cheers for the extra info mate
this forum is awesome!!! i have learn loads recently!! haha
pae
Wrench Pro
- Points
- 61
- Location
- Uckfield, East Sussex
Hi guys, newbie here.
just bought 106 1.1 (yeah, another!) for a cheap project. Intend sprinting next year.
Ok, I know 1.1 ain't the best start, but I needed a cheapy and at £50 with a bit of tax and MOT left it was a deal. Had a 924S before but sold it to start new business and needed cash. Pug's a bit different to that, believe me, but I needed something to get me in the garage eves/weekends
It needs a bit of work, but as luck would have it it's all the bits i'd want to do anyway - rear brakes, tyres, back-box - bingo!
So, before i replace them with stock ones, bearing in mind what I want to use it for, what's the best (cost-effective) upgrades in those areas. It'll never set the world alight around goodwood, sure, but if I'm going to change those bits I might as well get reasonable ones now.
Excellent forum, by far the best I've found on the Pug
cheers, Phil
just bought 106 1.1 (yeah, another!) for a cheap project. Intend sprinting next year.
Ok, I know 1.1 ain't the best start, but I needed a cheapy and at £50 with a bit of tax and MOT left it was a deal. Had a 924S before but sold it to start new business and needed cash. Pug's a bit different to that, believe me, but I needed something to get me in the garage eves/weekends
It needs a bit of work, but as luck would have it it's all the bits i'd want to do anyway - rear brakes, tyres, back-box - bingo!
So, before i replace them with stock ones, bearing in mind what I want to use it for, what's the best (cost-effective) upgrades in those areas. It'll never set the world alight around goodwood, sure, but if I'm going to change those bits I might as well get reasonable ones now.
Excellent forum, by far the best I've found on the Pug
cheers, Phil
pae
Wrench Pro
- Points
- 61
- Location
- Uckfield, East Sussex
Yep, £50, couldn't walk away could I
It's 1994 Mardi Gras. Dent on rear side, but mostly accessible from inside wheelarch so I might straighten or maybe leave alone. Doesn't foul anything and no paint broken, so not a big problem.
Mot til June. Girl who owned it had a service and they told her it needs new rear w/cylinders, drums and shoes, new tyre, CV joint gaiter and back box. She couldn't do the work so they quoted her £700 for the lot. She wasn't prepared to spend that sort of money so just off-loaded it!
Front discs are a bit worn too, so it'll get treated to new brakes all round.
It's exactly what I was looking for, something that needed mechanical work that I could do, but was basically sound.
cheers, Phil
It's 1994 Mardi Gras. Dent on rear side, but mostly accessible from inside wheelarch so I might straighten or maybe leave alone. Doesn't foul anything and no paint broken, so not a big problem.
Mot til June. Girl who owned it had a service and they told her it needs new rear w/cylinders, drums and shoes, new tyre, CV joint gaiter and back box. She couldn't do the work so they quoted her £700 for the lot. She wasn't prepared to spend that sort of money so just off-loaded it!
Front discs are a bit worn too, so it'll get treated to new brakes all round.
It's exactly what I was looking for, something that needed mechanical work that I could do, but was basically sound.
cheers, Phil
In terms of upgrading the parts you are looking to replace, there are a fair number of brake conversions for the 106, only they will be for the GTi and XSi etc, etc..
I'm guessing that the car runs a 3-stud set-up? All the brake conversions will be designed for a 4-stud hub.. If you perfeormed a conversion there would be plenty of options (but also dependant on the size of your wheel).
The standard GTi brakes would probably fit under 13" wheels, and this would also allow you to have disks at the rear. For a 4-stud hub you could also go for the same size as GTi-front disks, but go for grooved disks (247mm), or on 14 inch wheels you could go for 266mm disks, then on 15's and 16's you could get 276mm or 287mm disks! MONTERS! Sorry I got a bit carried away there! Best to just go for a all round disk conversion with 106 GTi brakes on a 4-stud set up.
I'm guessing that the car runs a 3-stud set-up? All the brake conversions will be designed for a 4-stud hub.. If you perfeormed a conversion there would be plenty of options (but also dependant on the size of your wheel).
The standard GTi brakes would probably fit under 13" wheels, and this would also allow you to have disks at the rear. For a 4-stud hub you could also go for the same size as GTi-front disks, but go for grooved disks (247mm), or on 14 inch wheels you could go for 266mm disks, then on 15's and 16's you could get 276mm or 287mm disks! MONTERS! Sorry I got a bit carried away there! Best to just go for a all round disk conversion with 106 GTi brakes on a 4-stud set up.
