Fault Code P1296

[johnnairn]

Hi there,

Was out driving today, pulled out from an icy-ish junction, tiny bit of wheel spin but nothing major, then the engine management light came on, didn't reset so got a fault code reading, came up with P1296: Cooling System Malfunction. The guy reset it and it's stayed off since, should I leave it or investigate further?

Cheers, John

 

[Loz]

Hello mate welcome to TC :bigsmile:,
If it comes up again, change the coolant temp sensor. That will probably cure it.

 

[pgarner]

hey and welcome to the site mate.
does the temp display show hot then cold ? if so then id could well be the temp sensor. £15 from the dealers and its a VERY common issue with vag

 

[johnnairn]

Thanks for the replies, I may just replace it to be on the safe side, the temp will go up to 90ish when slow driving/in traffic, but when driving normally it's usually down at about 65-70, I presume this is because of the cold air passing through the engine...

I might also invest in a fault code reader, is there much difference between the VAG one for £100+ and cheaper one or do they do more or less the same job? Cheers

 

[obi_waynne]

BTW if you need genuine Audi water pump for the 1.8T engine drop me a PM. I have one spare sitting in my cupboard and it is only 2 months old. I ordered one and the garage also got one so I'm stuck with a spare.

 

[pgarner]

make sure it can read your ECU some do have issues with VAG models.

personally im a fan of VCDS (used to be called vagcom) some VAG garages even use it rather than their own diagnostic tool.
this allows you to read the ECU for fault codes along with allowing additional programming, not mapping however, and logging if you belive you have an issue


the additional programming is stuff like
throttle body alligment - essential if youve disconnected the battery
oil service lights - for varible service, you can specify oil changes at set periods on some models as well as setting normal services.
additional things normally found on the higher models
anti theft, bleep when lock and unlock, interior moniting etc

not bad for around £60 i paid for my license only does up to 2003. for one that covers all VAG cars up to 2009 is around £240

 

[johnnairn]

Hello again, sorry I haven't posted in a while, been busy failing uni exams...

So I thought I'd update on the fault code situation: The light came on again and so replaced the coolant temp sensor like you suggested, and also got a code reader to reset the light but also read the following codes:
P0420 / 16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P1296 / 17704 - Error in mapped cooling system
P1297 / 17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve

Having reset the light, touch wood, it hasn't come on again, but I'd imagine it will! Could these all be linked to the coolant thermostat?

Also I've noticed that the car takes a long time to heat up, never usually gets to 90, and when it gets close, as soon as the climate control is switched on it will drop to 65 and not get any hotter... I plan to change the thermostat if its an easy fix, just wondered if anyone has had this sort of problem?

Cheers once again, John

 

[obi_waynne]

1) Before dismissing the cat I'd check the co2 readings, it might be caused by the 3rd fault upsetting the air fuel ratio.

2) It could well be the coolant thermostat.

3) Does the car have an atmospheric dump valve fitted? It sounds like a leak in a pipe or a dodgy recirc valve, get a forge recirculating valve as an upgrade.

 

[pgarner]

Hello again, sorry I haven't posted in a while, been busy failing uni exams...

So I thought I'd update on the fault code situation: The light came on again and so replaced the coolant temp sensor like you suggested, and also got a code reader to reset the light but also read the following codes:
P0420 / 16804 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P1296 / 17704 - Error in mapped cooling system
P1297 / 17705 - Pressure Drop between Turbo and Throttle Valve

Having reset the light, touch wood, it hasn't come on again, but I'd imagine it will! Could these all be linked to the coolant thermostat?

Also I've noticed that the car takes a long time to heat up, never usually gets to 90, and when it gets close, as soon as the climate control is switched on it will drop to 65 and not get any hotter... I plan to change the thermostat if its an easy fix, just wondered if anyone has had this sort of problem?

Cheers once again, John

Have a look on ross techs wiki for the faultcodes these normally give you an idea of where to look for.
the 17705 code is normally the original diverter valve passing as they are pretty poor - mines started passing around 43k on the clock. other main issue is on the right hand side of the engine there is a Y connecting pipe this is prone to splitting.
(will try and find a pic as herb had this issue not long ago and got some good pics)

thermostat is only supposed to be a 20 mins job. if its nice im doing mine tomorrow as mine stuck open last week but has been ok since

 

[pgarner]

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=16925102

link for the thermostat change
cant find the pic will try and find one later on

 

[herb]

here you go mate:bigsmile:

also check the 1 going from the y connector to the pcv cause mine went just after changing the y connector

 

[pgarner]

http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=16925102

link for the thermostat change

the guide is good but it took more than 30mins by a long shot good couple of hours

if you can give me your engine code - in the service book, on the sticker on the boot floor or on a plaque just to the right of the timing belt cover (engine top cover needs to come off to see it) ill get you the part number for the thermostat and o ring

 

[johnnairn]

Engine code is ARY. Thanks also for all the links and pictures, I will change the thermostat in the next few days, and I'll also check the condition of the pipes. I presume it has an atmospheric dump valve, it's all pretty standard. I'll look to change the recirculation valve if thats easy too, found some on the internet at around £100... Cheers for you help, it is much appreciated!

 

[pgarner]

no it has a recic valve although when it gets worn it does get louder and louder until it no longer holds boost properly. best replacement IMO is the forge 007p

thermostat part number is 050 121 113 c. im showing £29 for it but my prices are slightly out as not been updated for a while think it might have been £21 when i ordered it from VW last week (shows the same price from vw and audi)

seal part number 038 121 119 B cost £1.29
and a bottle of G12 coolant - if your quick at swapping them over you will get away with 1 easy - is £7 for a 1.5 ltr bottle

 

[johnnairn]

Alas the engine light came on again so I got under the bonnet... Just the one code this time (the original P1296).

Y-shaped pipes showing signs of wear but no holes or breaks, just the rubber slightly degrading, will need to be replaced at some point, but can't see it being the cause of a leak.

Have just spent a stupid amount of time on the thermostat, I would love to see anyone do that in 15-30 mins. That bottom bolt was an absolute bugger, to remove and get back in. Lost a fair bit of coolant as seemed to keep knocking out the thermostat, will I be able to just top this up from the resevoir or should I bleed the system to prevent an air lock? Also why is there no MAX mark on the resevoir... There's a MIN with a line below and above, but no MAX mark? Not 100% sure this will cure the heating/fault problems but it seems to be narrowing down the possibilities.

Slightly confused on the recirc valve front, they have the 007p but also have an adjustable one, what would be the benifit of this? Does a recirc valve do the same sort of this as a dump valve/blow off valve, only quieter?

 

[pgarner]

yeah the bottom bolt is a bugger with the alternator and powersteering pump in the way.
i found it easier using a 5mm allenkey rather than the 10mm bolt still took ages.
the max mark should be half way up the bottle - where the 2 halfs meet.
i just topped mines up through the bottle think i used the whole bottle of G12 and close to a ltr of water
let the engine heat up and squeezed all the pipes i could see then took it out for a gentle run rechecked the level and pipes. then a hard drive to make sure the thermostat was opening and again checked the levels
Started to think along the lines that it self bleeds itself as water constantly ran back through the top pipe.


the adjustable one i belive allows you to change the tension on the spring for higher boost values. the normal one you can change the spring and add shims to adjust.

not quite both do the same job which is to get rid of the excess pressure when the throttle is closed.
a Dump valve / BOV dumps the air to the atmosphere and gives you the whooosh.
a diverter valve / recirc puts the pressurised air back into the air intake - the advantage of this is supposed to be quicker spool up as the air is already slightly boosted. but they are quieter

the early 1.8t that didnt have a MAP sensor could run a atmospheric one. all the others can run one but expect errors and very poor running as the ECU will be looking for the extra air that is put back intot he intake.

 

[johnnairn]

That makes things a little more understandable thanks, I'll look to upgrade to the 007p soon. Thermostat change seems to have been sucessful, temp now sits at 90 degrees celcius which seems more normal.

Car also passed MOT this afternoon and CO2 readings were 0.028% on the fast idle test and 0.014% on the natural idle test.

Next stop is the cam belt and water pump in 800 miles or so! Probably will upgrade to a metal impeller water pump. Thanks for all your help!