Can anyone tell me how to bypass the engine fan so it's on all the time. I have a prob with temp gauge an I need a quick fix till I sort it properly. Have I just got to bridge the wires on the fan connectors? Help would be much appreciated thankyou.
Engine fan 620ti
- Thread starter turbonutter69
- Start date
You'd be better off wiring this through a switch so you can allow the engine to warm up before needing to throw it. If you short it directly it will be on all the time even when the ignition is off as most electric fans will run long after the engine has been switched off and keys removed. Wire a temporary switch through the ignition circuit.
Yeah but Can I just bridge the fan connection with a piece of wire an i'll keep taking it out when i'm not using it. It really is a quick fix till I have the time to look at it....
Yes, that will suffice. The temp switch is generally a bi-metallic one anyway, all you are doing is bypassing this bit, which may be broken.
Ok cheers mate. I will get round to fixing it but I just need a quick fix at the mo. Nice 1 anyway buddy I thought I could just bridge the connection but thought i'd better ask first...
Turning your heaters on full will take some heat out of the engine. I used this in slow traffic on a summers day when the water temp was sourinng to 85 degrees! It kept it down to 20 degrees.
BTW Running the fan all the time will cause the car to warm up slower, run colder and use more fuel.
The 2.0 Blocks do not like heat, be careful your headgasket will be at risk! Is the radiator in good condition?
BTW Running the fan all the time will cause the car to warm up slower, run colder and use more fuel.
The 2.0 Blocks do not like heat, be careful your headgasket will be at risk! Is the radiator in good condition?
Yes the radiator and water pump are fine. The temp gauge doesn't work thats why I wanted the quick fix. If I put a piece of wire inbetween the 2 wires going to the fan will this keep the fan on all the time???
It's probably only a faulty sender they only cost a few quid and take less time to fit than shorting the fan wires, plus a coolant topup.
Mate I plan to fix it just not today and the car is needed. An I'd rather have the fan on all the time than not at all. Does it work bridging the 2 wires before the plug to the fan??
You might fuse it if you are not careful. I can't think how the wiring goes in the 620's. I would have thought that briding those wires would not work. You need to supply a live to the fan to turn it on.
I don't think your temp gauge in the car is the same one used by the car to bring the fan on. The Rovers shut off the radiator until the car gets up to temp and then the flow starts round the radiator as it reaches operating temp.
I know mine dropped a lot when I cruised at 50mph in cold weather so they are quite efficient radiators. Keep the speed down, avoid queues or turn the engine off in a queue, do shorter journeys and turn your heater on full and you should be fine.
I don't think your temp gauge in the car is the same one used by the car to bring the fan on. The Rovers shut off the radiator until the car gets up to temp and then the flow starts round the radiator as it reaches operating temp.
I know mine dropped a lot when I cruised at 50mph in cold weather so they are quite efficient radiators. Keep the speed down, avoid queues or turn the engine off in a queue, do shorter journeys and turn your heater on full and you should be fine.
So does the fan come on then even though the temp gauge in the car doesn't work? I could do with bypassing the fan really till I can sort it..
The fan is usually controlled by a thermostat on an on/off basis rather than using your cars temperature gauge. The danger is that you no longer can see what the engine is doing heat wise. I don't think we appreciate our temp gauges as much as we should.
I'd really appreciate 1 right now. I've been a run in it anyway an it doesn't seem to be over heating. I'm gonna try an find time tomorrow to see what is actually wrong with the gauge...
Well the temp gauge has decided to start working. But it only goes up when I'm at a standstill. When the car is travelling at normal road speeds the temp gauge goes all the way back to the bootom of the blue bar...Is this just a dodgy temp sender or is my water system at fault?
pgarner
TC ModFather
could just be loose. when the engines moving the connections moving and giving a bad signal
where is the sender ?
where is the sender ?
My 220 temp dropped a lot but not all the way down at 50mph in cold weather. Especially after the new rad - the old one had more holes in it than a golf course.
It would only warm up again when I gave it a good thrashing. It does sound like a bad sender though.
It would only warm up again when I gave it a good thrashing. It does sound like a bad sender though.
I think it's on the water pump but i'm unsure as I haven't really had a good look round it yet. It seems fine boosts well an all. It's just that temp gauge thats worrying me cause I can't say I've heard the radiator fans kick yet either. I don't wanna just leave it ticking over until it boils over lol. I use the heaters when I'm in traffic or at lights an turn them off when I'm moving....Gonna uprate the head gasket in january sometime. An maybe the turbo seals as well.
How do I test the rad switch though?
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