cc increse

nig

nig

Torque Junkie
Points
62
Location
didcot
Car
rover 200 1.4si ish
evening or morning . was playing with numbers ect but anyway on my rover 200 1.6si i knew on some fords i think you could take to 1760cc. not looking in to diff engines .so if i get a 2nd car to play with would be a good time to get rebored to 1760 ect many thanks nig
nearly forgot does anybody know the bore and stroke as i can work out how many cc per 1mm ect
 
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I'm not sure if you can do this with your engine as it's an ally block with iron/steel liners. If it is possible, it will probably work out cheaper just picking up a 1.8 engine in the first place.
If your after Rover tuning ideas this is possibly the best resource on the web,

http://kengine.dvapower.com/

It's where I'm going when I have the pennies, if he hasn't retired by then:lol::bigsmile:
 
Loz said:
I'm not sure if you can do this with your engine as it's an ally block with iron/steel liners. If it is possible, it will probably work out cheaper just picking up a 1.8 engine in the first place.
If your after Rover tuning ideas this is possibly the best resource on the web,

http://kengine.dvapower.com/

It's where I'm going when I have the pennies, if he hasn't retired by then:lol::bigsmile:
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you may well be right was still thinking of the old cast engines , been out of touch with cars for around 18years will have to post pictures of my 1st convertable i did at around 22years old ,
 
It's not really applicable to engines made in the last 20 years or so. Even if it was, you'd have the Devil's own job getting it to meet emissions laws.
 
sorry but the way i see it if you want a quick car you buy one not do things to your engine that was not to be
cams i agree with but reboring no as the water jacket is that size for a reason for the heat
 
lutonmatt said:
sorry but the way i see it if you want a quick car you buy one not do things to your engine that was not to be
cams i agree with but reboring no as the water jacket is that size for a reason for the heat
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I agree. Modern engines are generally built to such tight tolerances that there is no room to remove metal.

I have to admit, however, as most will know, that my car has been remapped (nearly 3 years ago and over 70,000 miles ago). High pressure direct injection diesels do have a big margin built in and are undertuned at the factory, probably to make a place in the market for petrol equivalent models.

Mine is completely standard mechanically. It just runs higher peak boost pressures with fuel timing and dwell altered to make use of the extra air that's forced into it.

It works well, giving storming mid-rev range acceleration without any detriment to reliability or fuel economy.

I would never consider changing the geometry of an engine's internals. If I need to go that far then I have the wrong car in the first place.
 
HDi fun said:
I would never consider changing the geometry of an engine's internals. If I need to go that far then I have the wrong car in the first place.
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You're ruling out re-boring and over-sized pistons? Which is the best way to be 100% the cylinder is round and the walls are perfect. Hence why even car manufacturers sell over-sized pistons. If you're rebuilding it SHOULD be done where possible in most cases.

Reboring or overboring for the sake of it or for more power though, no. The extra gain in capacity is just a bonus. If done correctly there's nout wrong with boring an engine and it can even create a better "seal" than a standard cast block due to flaws in the casting.

Don't see any benefit for you though personally but if you were going to rebuild, you'd just get the block resleeved.
 
Yes, I am ruling out reboring and the fitment of oversize pistons and rings. For me, that is.

I'd never take a perfectly serviceable engine and grind metal from it.

If the engine was in such a state of disrepair that the bores were so worn then I'd replace the car.

THat's not to say it shouldn't be done, BUT, it's just not for me.
 
MasterAuron said:
You're ruling out re-boring and over-sized pistons? Which is the best way to be 100% the cylinder is round and the walls are perfect. Hence why even car manufacturers sell over-sized pistons. If you're rebuilding it SHOULD be done where possible in most cases.
.
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no such thing a perfect or a 100% round due to pie 3.141r or what ever it is
lol sorry only we was talking about it at work this week
 
HDi fun said:
I agree. Modern engines are generally built to such tight tolerances that there is no room to remove metal.

I have to admit, however, as most will know, that my car has been remapped (nearly 3 years ago and over 70,000 miles ago). High pressure direct injection diesels do have a big margin built in and are undertuned at the factory, probably to make a place in the market for petrol equivalent models.

Mine is completely standard mechanically. It just runs higher peak boost pressures with fuel timing and dwell altered to make use of the extra air that's forced into it.

It works well, giving storming mid-rev range acceleration without any detriment to reliability or fuel economy.

I would never consider changing the geometry of an engine's internals. If I need to go that far then I have the wrong car in the first place.
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i would not rule out any remapping as its a simple thing so to speak and i am going to do it to mine
and might put new intake and headers and can on the other one but then it would be a race engine but would not rebore it
 
lutonmatt said:
no such thing a perfect or a 100% round due to pie 3.141r or what ever it is
lol sorry only we was talking about it at work this week
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I wouldn't know mate, I'm more of a mechanic than a mathmetician. As round as the pistons and rings you are using can possibly be then.
 
HDi fun said:
I'd never take a perfectly serviceable engine and grind metal from it.
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Lol but you're so keen on taking a perfectly serviceable (for some) fuel map and changing it? It's horses for courses. Real engineering rather than electronic wizardry. It's improving on standard, which is the whole point of tuning, no?

Grinding bits of your engine sorts the men from the boys ;):lol:
 
MasterAuron said:
I wouldn't know mate, I'm more of a mechanic than a mathmetician. As round as the pistons and rings you are using can possibly be then.
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lol me neather just one of them things that have stuck in my head
one day it might come in usefull
but till then i will just be a mechanic and tester
 
If its the k series engine you can fit the 1.8 rods :)

1.6 is a bigger bore 1400, and the 1800 is a longer stroke 1600. HTH

I dont see a problem getting into the nitty gritty of modifying engine internals. Yes it may be more hassle than just going for a new engine but wheres the fun in that :toung: and availabilty/expense of a new engine may also be a factor.

Different horses for different courses i suppose :D
 
Munday,

Greetings. The con-rods only decide the distance the piston is from the crank-pin.
You have to change the crank to change the effective stroke.
Which usually necessitates having to change either the rods or the pistons or both to get the piston deck height correct @ TDC (usually flush with the top of the block deck in most cases).

A real example from memory was turning a 2.5litre BMW engine into a 2.7
The 2.5 had a bore of 84mm and a stroke of 75mm which gives a capacity of 2494cc
(8.4 x 8.4 x 7.5 x 0.7854 x 6 (no of cylinders in the engine) = 2493.8
to get the increase to 2.7 an 81mm crank was fitted with BMW320 rods to correct the deck height.

This combination then gave 2693cc. :)

**The effective increase in stroke changed the static CR from 9.7:1 to 10.4:1. The CR increase is something that has to be considered before any conversion like this.
 
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