At Last!. I have started on my car ;-) PART 2

Completed shroud with seals fitted. I trimmed the side flanges removing 30grams :)

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Also cut the gear lever down to a sensible length:
 
Confused , I am :) Are you using an 850 or 1600cfm of both?

How are you using the fan(s) to pull air through both rad and cooler? Hadn't thought about fanning the cooler as it is only 6" high.

Steve what Richard from ARE told me is that wile the fan is say a 1600 CFM unit that it will only be able to flow/pull thru app 850 CFM when placed behind the radiator and close mounted cooler .

FWIW my IC is 600x300 actual cooler core size and is mounted directly in front of the radiator where the AC condenser/radiator was mounted as have removed the AC to reduce weight :)
 
Understand re fan CFM. I forgot that most ICs are placed in front of the radiator. Mine is mounted on top so they have their own personal air supply, with the amount being delivered to each being adjustable.
 
I am impressed with RS Components. Ordered an EGT sensor on Thursday evening and it arrived on Friday!

 
I have been looking for a deal on Evans "Power Cool 180" waterless coolant for a while. Made a cheeky offer on eBay and it was accepted! :)

Another box ticked.
 
Thanks, an interesting site. However, I have now sourced most of the sensors. I am now just looking for:

MAP sensor 0-5v 4 bar absolute
LAMBDA NTK 6 wire
Barometric sensor 2.5Kpa Weber
 
I have been looking for a deal on Evans "Power Cool 180" waterless coolant for a while. Made a cheeky offer on eBay and it was accepted! :)

Another box ticked.

Or you could have asked me, I think I still have about 5 gallons left and plenty of prep fluid
 
Oil, fuel and pneumatic gear change pressure sensors arrived on Tuesday and the Evans waterless coolant arrived yesterday. A few more items knocked of the list. I thought that I could see the light at the end of the list tunnel, but it turned out to be a future me with a torch adding more items!

 
I have been looking for a max 2bar map for the intake tract and found this one. It is for a Honda Acura Integra Turbo. It is only 1.7 bar which is even better but sourcing the 3 pin plug is proving to be more of a problem. Anyone got one lying around or know if Honda parts dept would stock such a thing?

I like this sensor because I can mount it directly to the intake pipe so negating the use of a rubber tube. Neater and lighter :)

 
I have been playing with my steering wheel gauge and buttons as I am not happy with the appearance, so I have a third set of buttons on their way from China (different style). I was also not happy with the fitting of the gauge as it looks as if it is just stuck on, which it is. I have, therefore, managed to recess it slightly (restricted by DIN plugs and wires at the rear). When secured I will blend it in prior to flocking so it looks a little more meant.

I am going to try flocking rather than wrinkle paint and to that end I bought a flocking kit from Frost Auto Restoration. I will also flock the steering wheel spokes to match.



 
Recent jobs:

Rerouted brake pipe from pedal to handbrake so it clears the gearbox (it cleared it originally but only marginally).

Fitted crank sensor.


Fitted fuel pressure and gear change air pressure sensors. I had to fit a 90 degree eblow to the fuel sensor otherwise it would have fouled the bonnet.



Raised gearbox tailshaft 10mm so the prop is now in a better alignment.
 
I have been looking for a max 2bar map for the intake tract and found this one. It is for a Honda Acura Integra Turbo. It is only 1.7 bar which is even better but sourcing the 3 pin plug is proving to be more of a problem. Anyone got one lying around or know if Honda parts dept would stock such a thing?

I like this sensor because I can mount it directly to the intake pipe so negating the use of a rubber tube. Neater and lighter :)


Not sure about the loom connection Steve, but the male pins in the picture look like 3mm male connectors. You could always try 3mm female receptacles and use heat shrink over the individual terminations and then a larger heat shrink tube over the connection housing to make it all water tight. If you get the unit let me know the size as I have the female receptacles here and a collection of heat shrink sleeving.
 
Thanks Os, but I have my own collection of male and female spades as well as heat shrink :)

As it happens I have since found a supplier in the States and one is on its way, although it cost more than the MAP sensor itself.
 
MAP fitted to induction tube. This joins the cone filter to the 115mm ducting that goes to the turbo. Its shape was dictated by having to squeeze it between the radiator and inner wing. Not one of my better efforts, but it is mostly hidden so I can live with it.



 
Steering wheel, however, is coming along nicely. Just waiting for the rest of the buttons to arrive:

 
I have spent a few days blending the screen into the base. Doesn't really show up in the photo but it looks more meant and not just stuck on.

Just waiting for parachute button (above key), indicator rocker (hole to left willbe modified) and three switches. 7 pin plug hole is for connecting a computer to the dash. The plug is on the dash loom that has yet to be fitted.

The four butons under the screen are for flipping between screens and menu choices. The key is for arming the parachute button. Button on the far left is for allowing neutral to be selected on the sequential box, the three buttons on the right are for line lock, launch and traction control and the button at 7 o'clock is for nitrous if and when fitted.



 
I have been mulling over in my head for some months a method for securing the bonnet. There are no hinges so it has to be lifted off. The traditional way is Dzus but they are ugly. I bought a pair of these a few years ago, but they are heavy and a fair bit of fabricating would be needed in order to secure the locating pins.



Surfing the net tonight and I stumbled across these and thought ' just the job!' A pair of these under the dash and a couple of locating pins at the front and the job is done.

 
Steve,

I'm working my way through this thread from both ends(!), from the front I think I'm only on page 8, but I'm getting through them! I noticed you have been maching components for wheelie bars.

I wondered which events you would be campaining in - this isn't going to be a straight dragster is it? Are you still looking at TOTB?

P.S. If you hadn't seen I've responded in our 'conversation'.
 
Hi Iain.

Mainly drag racing, but plan to do some sprints as North Weald is close by. TOTB is still in my plans. It will be road legal.

Wheelie bar is done, just had the slight hiccup with with rod ends at both ends!

Didn't notice so I will look now :)
 
I have been surfing for inspiration on how to get more air into the intercooler and I think I have found the perfect solution:

 
Hadn't thought of that :)

A little research discovered that the ideal ratio between intake opening and radiator/intercooler area is around 1:4. Off to see a couple of gurus to garner their opinions as mine at present are around 1:1.4 and 1:2.4

 
After lengthy discussions we have come up with a cooling plan so that there is no delay in building the car:

No auxilary radiator will be fitted at present but we have a preferred plan if one is proven to be needed.

Existing radiator is being converted to triple pass.

The shroud is being trimmed back so only the section containing the fan will be kept. This will allow more air to pass when travelling at high speed. The shrouded section will help to keep engine cool when stationary.

A bespoke oil cooler to fit available space with air exiting into wheel well. It will be approx A4 size, 28mm thick and double pass.
 
Yes. However, I already have a very expensive air to air intercooler. The liquid to air intercooler still requires a radiator, fan, additional pump and I assume its own water supply. For now, I think I will stay with what I have. Once up and running we will soon know whether we need to rethink the cooling system.
 
More discussions. Taking into account the primary objective with this car, 1/4 action, we have changed our minds again.

Radiator staying single pass but the shroud will still be trimmed back. Gaps around around the radiator/intercooler will be carefully sealed and the ducting of hot air out of the engine bay will be given a lot of thought. We are still planning to use Evans waterless coolant.

Oil takes a lot longer to heat up than water so an oil cooler would be counter productive. We will fit a water/oil heat exchanger between oil filter and block to assist in getting oil up to temperature. To that end we will also be fitting a 230v 1000w oil pan heater. Hot oil extends engine life and increases available power.

I think we have finally cracked it for now. Build to this spec and see what happens. If the car overheats we have solutions worked out.
 
Having the right tools makes life SO much easier. I wasn't happy with the fitting of the throttle blip solenoid, it looked a bit Heath Robinson, so I have tidied it up a bit loosing one connector in the process.



The small set screws securing the solenoid were a tad too long. I had shorter ones but the heads were too wide. A couple of minutes on the lathe and they fit perfectly :)





 

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