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I've recorded a bit of video of my engine on open induction. Sounds like a bit of a beast and cant wait to find out how it performs on full throttle on a RR

I don't know if this is true but it might be worth looking into: Basically I read that diesel turbo units aren't built to withstand the same operating temperature ranges that petrol engines create, and are more likely to fail in those circumstances. I would never put anyone off doing anything...

If you want to change the colour but not add a layer of insulating stuff to the surface (daft thing to do) then why not anodize?

Cheers, I may have over-egged the coilover thing: the rears are AVO units meant for a turreted RWD escort with some suitable sized bushes made to suit. The fronts are the original struts with the 'basket' thing cut off and coilover sleeves welded on. The springs are 500lb units at the front...

Don't know much a rotary engines, but have spent hundreds of hours messing about with a flow-bench and can tell you that (in my experience at least) polishing makes no discernible difference to flow (notwithstanding what TCJBOLDIE says about it helping keep the exhaust port clean!)

If you ignore the woeful thermal efficiency of internal combustion engines, and the effect of braking on economy you find that the great majority of losses for a car come through aerodynamic drag. Drag is the force that's produced by the car the act of pushing air out of the way as it travels...

They used to sell it on the Wiral near Liverpool. I used it mixed with methanol on a nitrous injected motor once, but it was such a pain in the **** to get hold off I gave up and went back to high octane petrol

In terms of what limits power for any engine (turbo or NA) the number one factor is the head design. Having ports that have (as near as possible) vertical runs into the combustion chamber is a great starting point. A large valve area needs to complement that, then its all about pulse tuning...

Lean as possible without causing overheating. David Vizard once set up a mini to run super lean just to see how much extra economy he could get out of it. Dont remember the exact results but they were good. Getting away from the engine for a moment, over-inflated tyres and lowered suspension...

Fantastic on the track but wouldn't dream of using them on the road

No problem in the UK.

Fresh grind is pretty much always better as you can have both duration and lift. Lift is more important from the point of view of torque at lower rpm. Regrinds attempt to increase lift through reducing the base circle diameter, but my experience is that this is limited. If you want a...

There's two things there: the maximum revs that the engine can safely sustain, and the rev range where maximum BHP can be developed. It's entirely possible to create an engine that develops its max power at 9000rpm, but for that engine to throw a rod at 8000rpm, so you could never safely use...

Hi, My car is an N reg drab green 5-door Proton Persona 1.6LXi that I've spent a lot of time turning into a car that's actually worth driving..... The engine has been swapped out for a 12K miles 1.8 4G93 unit, fitted with a breathed head that I laboured over through the course of an entire...