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I don't think this engine will live for much longer. It's leaking oil from the fillercap. The regulations for fitting another engine with different cc is strict to the original factory papers. It can be changed but the entire car has to be tested. So we might get an 1.6 from the automatic...

Why should I? The car weighs only 850kg. It;s also been done before. An engine for 350 bucks ain't much, can't get a fast car with that kind of money that also handles like a go-kart. So another engine still is the cheaper option. And it should be fun to do

Looking for another engine, it's a 2.0 Turbo from the 406/Citroen XM I stumbled upon. (150hp) Only thing is, can the car itself handle it? It's not a GTi... Gti Subframe, reinforced braking and go?

Diagnoses are either the spill-valve is worn out ot the entire dieselpump must be replaced (expensive! €1400:blink:). Could cause the slow acceleration and lack of performance so I'll have to find an overhauled fuelpump (€500-€800). Having problems with starting the engine when warm.

New turbo maybe? Closing the EGRvalve... increase fuelpumppressure?

Just got serviced, no difference in performance. New oil + filter, new coolant and general checkup. According to mechanic, nothing wrong with it

Yes, a 2litre TurboDiesel with just 90hp. I've got it, laying in the Mazda 323f 1999... Chiptuning is out of the question since the engine(management) is simply too old. What else could I do? I'm not a diesel expert, give me a petrolengine any day, but hey, mpg is good... Can't even stick...

Sounds like the wiring is messed up, how is the tubeline from the door to the A-style (where the hinges are)? Is it open, cracked or even missing? Could be a ground problem, it also may be advisable to remove the doorpanel to see what's under there. If it's filled with water, these problems...

When does this occur? Right on start up or only when the engine is warm? Or else, I certanly hope not, your'e burning cables due to short circuit!

My daily driver is the 323 "fastbreak" with diesel engine (maybe from Ford). The thing is, it's slow as a Suzuki Alto(no pun intended). I've searched for chiptuning, but results are 0. It's just to old for chipping. So what mechanical things could I do? I'm still want to close the EGR and...

Yes it has an ECU, even readable for errors, and yes, it's a singlepoint injection. There is an other person in the Netherlands who had done it before I do, but he got a mapable ECU, other exhaust manifold (self-made, looks bad), but the rest is all original, so I know it's possible. Only it's...

But how does the ECU know, when bolting on a turbo, that it needs more fuel? I don't think the ECU is not THAT smart. My first thaugt for this project was indeed to use a fuel regulator to give more fuel when boosting. Not shure it might work with the ECU, that's why I wanted to bypass the ECU...

That's not the question, my concern is the original ECU wich limits the amount of fuel injected, I believe.

Could this work? How could I do this? By getting the original fuelline and make a Y splitter? I have a image in my head, but not sure how to put it in words... @MasterAuron: That's exactly what I think, 1liter 2 cilinder Turbo of FIAT for example, delivered in the Panda and 500 (Twinair)...

thanks for the response friends... So it's sure it's not easy to fool the ecu without touching it. Can't I use a ECU from the 1.6 or 1.9 engine? Wait, it won't get enough fuel to the inlet for a turbo or would it? Note that I want to push it to only 0.5 bar

I am planning to bolt on a turbo to a small engine running 0.5bar. It's a peugeot 205 1360cc 8valve injection with a compression ratio of 9.3:1 This should all be fine, I got the basics worked out, but my question is: How will the ECU respond to that bit of extra air? Are there products on...